Key ingredients in s’mores cookies

Let’s talk about the good stuff — graham crackers, milk chocolate, and marshmallows. Graham crackers are used two ways here. First, they’re crushed very finely into a flour-like consistency. This graham cracker “flour” is then toasted in a pan until fragrant, which brings out a slight nuttiness and amplifies its flavor. When combined with all-purpose flour, it permeates the dough, providing a base layer of graham cracker flavor. In addition, graham crackers are used as a mix-in, pumping up the flavor and adding texture.

Next, chopped milk chocolate studs the graham cracker-flavored dough, which melts into creamy little puddles that when baked provide the chocolatey sweetness of a s’more. Finally, portions of dough are wrapped around halved marshmallows. Using halves, rather whole marshmallows, ensure that the marshmallow’s sweetness doesn’t overwhelm the cookie. Plus, wrapping the dough around the marshmallow creates a melted, gooey center that, when broken in half, pulls apart the same way as the toasty marshmallow in a s’more.

A few thoughtful techniques and tricks elevate this simple drop-style cookie dough and, while it may come across as otherwise, I promise these are a breeze to make!

You can make it work without a food processor. If you don’t have a food processor, finely crush the graham crackers in a resealable plastic bag to make the graham cracker flour.

Go for small chunks of chocolate. Chopping the chocolate into smaller chunks makes the cookies easier to shape around the marshmallow and ensures you get just the right amount of chocolate in each bite.

Scoop and stuff the cookies one by one. This makes it easier to shape the dough over the marshmallow. As the dough sits, the flour will start to absorb the liquid ingredients — making it feel drier — meaning it can fall apart more easily if the dough was pre-scooped.

Chill the dough. Chilling the shaped and stuffed dough is the most important part of this recipe. It allows the marshmallow and dough to bake at the same rate and prevents the dough from spreading out too much, creating that perfect soft and chewy texture. Additionally, it helps prevent the marshmallow from melting into the dough and ultimately disappearing.

Makes 28 (3-inch) cookies

• 2 large eggs
• 8 1/2 ounces whole graham cracker sheets (15 to 16), divided
• 2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
• 8 ounces milk chocolate, or 1 1/2 cups milk chocolate chips
• 14 regular-sized (about 1-inch tall) marshmallows (not jumbo or extra-large)
• 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Place two large eggs on the counter and let sit until room temperature. Meanwhile, make the graham cracker “flour”: Break up about 4 1/2 ounces of the whole graham cracker sheets (8 1/2 to 9) with your hands into large pieces and place in the bowl of a mini or regular-sized food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Pulse until very fine, floury crumbs form, somewhere between powdery and sandy, 20 to 22 (1-second) pulses.

2. Place the remaining 4 ounces graham cracker sheets (6 1/2 to 7) in a resealable plastic bag, seal the bag, and crush lightly with a rolling pin into 1/4 to 1/2-inch pieces.

3. Cut two sticks unsalted butter into cubes and place in a medium saucepan. Melt over medium heat until just melted. Scrape the melted butter into a large bowl. (Alternatively, microwave in 30-second intervals in a large microwave-safe bowl until melted.) Let sit until cooled to room temperature or warm to the touch, at least 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, add the graham cracker flour to the same saucepan (no need to wipe out). Toast over medium heat, stirring often, until slightly darker in color and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and let cool for the remaining time the butter has to cool.

5. While the butter and graham cracker flour cool, chop 8 ounces milk chocolate into 1/4 to 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups) if not using chocolate chips. Wipe the knife and cutting board of any flecks of chocolate, then cut 14 regular-sized marshmallows in half crosswise.

6. Add 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda, and 1/4 teaspoon baking powder to the bowl of toasted graham cracker flour and whisk to combine.

7. Add 2/3 cup packed light brown sugar, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, and 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt to the bowl of melted butter. Stir with a flexible spatula until combined and the sugars are visibly saturated. Add the eggs and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, and beat with the spatula until the eggs are completely broken up and incorporated, and the mixture is smooth and glossy.

8. Add the flour mixture and stir until just about fully combined; some dry spots are OK. Add the chocolate and fold until the chocolate is evenly distributed. Add the crushed graham crackers and fold until just distributed through the dough, trying not to break the crackers up too much.

9. Line a small rimmed baking sheet (or large plate) with parchment paper. Portion and stuff the cookies one at a time: Use a 2-inch scoop to portion out a ball of cookie dough (2 tablespoons). Cup the dough in one hand and use the fingers of your other hand to poke a well into the center. Place one marshmallow half into the well with the cut side facing down. Use your fingers to pinch and work the dough over the marshmallow until almost completely covered, leaving just a little marshmallow exposed. Place on the baking sheet with the exposed marshmallow facing up.

10. Repeat with the remaining dough and marshmallows. Freeze until the dough is chilled and firmed up, about 15 minutes. (Alternatively, refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to one day.) Meanwhile, arrange two racks to divide the oven into thirds and heat the oven to 350 F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

11. Transfer seven portions of the dough onto each baking sheet, spacing them at least 3 inches apart (keep the remaining dough in the freezer or refrigerator).

12. Bake for 6 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets between racks and from front to back. Continue to bake until the cookies are golden to golden brown, the dough around the marshmallow is set, and the marshmallow is melted and puffed, 5 to 6 minutes more.

13. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for 1 minute. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for a few minutes before serving. Meanwhile, bake the remaining portions of dough, reusing the parchment and baking sheets (no need to cool off the baking sheets first). If you plan to toast the marshmallow, do so while the cookies are still warm.

12. To toast the marshmallows (optional): Arrange a rack in the top of the oven and heat the oven to broil. Discard the parchment paper from one of the baking sheets; arrange 14 of the cookies on this sheet. Broil until the marshmallows just turn golden-brown, 15 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes, rotating the baking sheet as needed. Return the cookies to the wire rack and let cool for a few minutes before serving. Repeat broiling the remaining cookies.

Equipment variation: If you don’t have a food processor, finely crush the graham crackers in a resealable plastic bag to make the graham cracker flour.

Make ahead: The portioned and stuffed cookie dough can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped on a parchment-lined baking sheet or in an airtight container, for up to 1 day before baking. Bake as directed for the same amount of time.

The stuffed dough can also be frozen on a parchment-lined baking sheet until solid, then stored in a resealable plastic bag in the freezer for up to one month. Bake from frozen, adding a few more minutes baking time as needed after the baking sheets are rotated.

Storage: Leftover cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to four days.

(Kayla Hoang is a contributor to TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to [email protected].)