But with the way scenic views often go hand in hand with subpar, overpriced food, I was skeptical. The only way to know for sure was to take the column outside San Francisco for the first time ever, following day-tripping tourists down the coast.

Entering the blue-and-white building just off the highway on a quiet, rainy Wednesday, my eyes were immediately drawn to the windows. Just outside, the beach: milky waves lapping at the shore, blue-gray skies, kite surfers skidding across the water. The cliffside patio chairs were stacked up, but in better weather, the outdoor dining area teems with tourists slurping clam chowder.

Co-founders Paul and Julie Shenkman opened Sam’s Chowder House in 2006, aiming for a traditional New England-style seafood restaurant vibe, the San Francisco Chronicle reported at the time. The business has since grown with a food truck, Sam’s ChowderMobile, which pops up across the Bay Area. They also have a Chase Center location.

Nabbing a table in the peak of summer tourist season can be a challenge, but on our lunch visit my colleague and I strode in and were offered a coveted window seat. The interior was classic coastal: powder blue walls, warm wood, life preservers and fish decor. The restaurant doesn’t lean as far into kitsch as some other coastal spots, but it does have its own gift shop should the desire for a commemorative T-shirt strike.

It may not have been beach weather, but it was certainly clam chowder weather, so we ordered both varieties on the menu to start. For the uninitiated, New England chowder is the thick and cream-based version you’d find in a Boudin bread bowl; Manhattan chowder, a tomato-based, brothier version, is more of a rarity on the West Coast. 

Both bowls of chowder, served with the requisite bags of oyster crackers, were steaming and nourishing on a cold winter day ($10.50 each). But the one that jolted my taste buds was the bright red Manhattan chowder, with its zingy tomato and kick of spice. The New England chowder was a respectable version of the classic, brimming with chunks of potato, smoked bacon and Little Neck clams, but lackluster in comparison. 

If I had to recommend one appetizer, it would be the baked oysters Rockefeller ($16.95). The pillowy oysters topped with molten Parmigiano-Reggiano, spinach and crispy bread crumbs were decadent enough for an oil tycoon. Another dish, a seafood spaghetti with prawns and mussels, was unevenly cooked, with too-soft pasta and chewy chunks of fish. 

Ordering a lobster roll seemed non-negotiable, considering their reputation at Sam’s. A good lobster roll is buttery and indulgent, a submarine straight to the salty ocean floor. But the stakes are high — a bad one is a wearisome, mushy mess that will still set you back the cost of a transbay Uber ride. I hate to say it, but I’ve endured more than a few of these sad iterations in the Bay Area.

We opted for the dressed version ($29.95), served “authentic Maine style” with chilled lobster mixed with lemon aioli, celery and chives. Sam’s also serves a “naked” lobster roll, warm with butter and celery. 

The sandwich came on a toasted bun generously heaped with lobster meat, plus a side of potato chips and coleslaw. I have to admit that for nearly $30, I was a little disappointed to see what appeared to be mass-produced potato chips on the side of my plate instead of a pile of the restaurant’s Old Bay fries. The coleslaw, meanwhile, I found overly sweet.

The lobster roll itself was good, but not great. The meat was sweet and tender, sparingly dressed to let the lobster shine. But it struck me as bland — the lemon in the aioli was barely present. A little more acidity would have kicked the whole thing up a notch. 

It certainly would not have made my personal list of the top five sandwiches in America, let alone the Bay Area. 

$30 for a sandwich is steep, but I’m not going to complain about the price too much — lobster rolls are more expensive than ever in the Bay Area due to the high cost of shipping ingredients and warmer ocean temperatures. I will say, however, that I’ve had better lobster rolls at a similar price point. At San Francisco’s Little Shucker, I recently enjoyed a divine hot lobster roll bathed in clarified butter and topped with salty tobiko, garlic breadcrumbs and chives for $35. 

I also couldn’t help but wonder why I was wasting my time eating a Maine lobster roll when it’s Dungeness crab season in the Bay Area — and there I was, right by Pillar Point Harbor where you can buy live crab off the boat. Sam’s Chowder House does offer whole Dungeness crab, but it’s not what the restaurant is known for.

The scenic atmosphere, though, was worth the visit, paired with the friendly service and tasty appetizers like those godly oysters Rockefeller. Our meal for two, which was more than we could finish, came out to $108.11 before tip (also including a Coke). 

I wouldn’t go out of my way for this supposed best lobster roll in America, but if it wasn’t too crowded, Sam’s Chowder House is the sort of place I would take my parents on a coastal day trip. I have a feeling, too, that in the warmth of summer, a lobster roll enjoyed in the salty air of the outdoor patio might hit differently.

Sam’s Chowder House, 4210 N. Cabrillo Highway, Half Moon Bay. Open Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Friday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday, 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.