Pairing lemon with pasta is just brilliant, as it lightens up what could be a very heavy dish. While the Northern Italian rendition uses a mix of cream and lemon juice, this pasta is coated in a silky butter sauce made with lemon zest as well as juice—it’s a bright, clean-flavored, lemony dish. Serve this in winter, when sweet, thin-skinned Meyer lemons are available and you start craving a comforting yet sunny-tasting dish like this. But don’t sweat it if you don’t have Meyer lemons; regular lemon sweetened with a squeeze of tangerine works beautifully in their place. We add a drizzle of olive oil—ideally a light, aromatic Ligurian oil—just before serving so that the fragrance of the warmed oil melds with the sauce. Our kids beg for this: When she was only two years old, Prue used to shout, “More lemon!”