Los Angeles’s booming Italian restaurant scene is something of a chicken-and-egg situation. Whether it’s Angelenos’ tremendous appetite for pasta fueling the proliferation of Italian restaurants or an abundance of Italian restaurants that inspire the craving, there’s no denying that Italian food has flourished around town. The latest newcomer to join the fray is Civico 2064, which opens today, August 5, on Hillhurst Avenue in Los Feliz. The San Diego import aims to stand out with its blend of traditional Calabrian cooking and vegan-friendly fare.

Brothers Dario and Pietro Gallo, born and raised in Cosenza, Italy, opened the original Civico 1845 in the Little Italy neighborhood of downtown San Diego in 2015. Dario serves as the restaurant’s general manager, while Pietro is its executive chef and the force behind its extensive vegan offerings. In a 2016 review of the restaurant by Troy Johnson for San Diego Magazine, the restaurant’s vibe was described as warm and welcoming, like crashing “a family dinner somewhere in the toe portion of Italy.” In another review in the San Diego Union Tribune, Michelle Parente wrote that the “animal-product-free dishes are not only as good as the regular ones, they’re actually better.”

Jakob N. Layman

Jakob N. Layman

Jakob N. Layman

Jakob N. Layman

Dario and Pietro relocated to Los Angeles for Civico 2064, with Pietro continuing to oversee the kitchen at the original location. “After our success in San Diego, it felt natural to explore the larger market in LA,” Dario tells Eater. “We took our time finding the right neighborhood, and Los Feliz stood out with its walkable, European vibe and a strong vegan presence.” The different numerals in the restaurants’ names are a nod to their respective addresses. “In Italian, ‘numero civico’ means address number, a way to signify a home,” says Dario. “Civico 1845 refers to our San Diego ‘home’ at 1845 India Street in Little Italy, while Civico 2064 marks our Los Angeles ‘home’ at 2064 Hillhurst Avenue in Los Feliz.”

Chef Giuseppe Raia will assist Pietro in the Los Feliz location’s kitchen, while Orto Farms provides the restaurant with heirloom tomatoes, zucchini, basil, and herbs using Italian seeds. The menu at Civico 2064 closely hews to the original, with a slate of starters like meatballs served with whipped ricotta and fried zucchini blossoms, along with six pastas prepared with homemade noodles and a few main courses.

Kevin Preval

Kevin Preval

Kevin Preval

Kevin Preval

The pappardelle ladled with a short rib ragu is a carryover from San Diego, while the paccheri Civico with clams, squid, and prawns is updated for LA. Larger format dishes include classic chicken saltimbocca and pistachio-crusted wild-caught salmon. Nearly half the menu is vegan, substituting rice-based mozzarella and nut-based ricotta in place of traditional dairy products. The pistachio gelato is a highlight from the original menu and will also be served in the Los Feliz outpost.

To drink is a tight wine list that features small producers, organic, skin contact, and orange wines. A few wine-based cocktails, including spritzes and bellinis, are on hand while the restaurant is awaiting a full liquor license.

“While San Diego has been running smoothly for nearly a decade, we only expand when it feels right,” says Dario. “We’re not chasing growth for growth’s sake. For now, we’re dedicated to LA.”

Civico 2064 is located at 2064 Hillhurst Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90027, and is open daily at 5 p.m. Reservations are available on OpenTable.