Throngs of tourists flood into Mykonos and Santorini each summer. And while both have attractive attributes, they’re far from the only holiday havens worthy of a spot on a well-crafted Greek island-hopping itinerary. In recent years, Milos, Sifnos, and Paros have started to garner attention from international tourists. But even with travelers exploring more of the Cyclades group, Folegandros continues to fly under the radar. Perhaps it’s the challenge of actually getting to the island. Despite its proximity to Santorini, Ios, and Sikinos, ferry service remains quite limited and sporadic.

Seemingly, the limited transportation options play a role in preventing overtourism and preserving the splendid status quo. Still sparsely developed and rugged in all the right ways, the tiny island with just over 700 residents shows off pristine beaches — many of which require a boat or semi-precarious trek to reach — Cycladic architecture, and a frozen-in-time village. Small in size and population, it’s intimate and welcoming in every regard. After a few days, Folegandros begins to feel pleasantly familiar as you see the same faces sipping espresso by the Castro and catching rays on the shores of Agali Beach.

Here’s everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip to low-key Folegandros.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Anemomilos

Family-owned and operated for the past 31 years, Anemomilos is everything you’d want in a boutique hotel in the Cyclades. Perched on a hillside steps from Chora — the main village — it’s as pretty as a postcard with whitewashed architecture, charming rooms of various configurations for couples and families, and a pool and restaurant that overlook the blue waters of the Aegean Sea.

Gundari

The newest addition to the hotel scene in Greece, Gundari is a luxury retreat perched atop a dramatic cliff. Accessible via a rocky, dirt road that winds through arid farmland, it’s wonderfully removed from the rest of the world (despite being a 10-minute drive from town). The earthy bungalow-style accommodations have private plunge pools. Really want to lean into vacation mode? Book a stress-melting massage at the spa.

Anemi

With a location just steps from the port and a spate of amenities, Anemi is an ideal home base for a Folegandros vacation. The property provides comfortable rooms (tip: book one of the sea-view accommodations and enjoy coffee on the terrace each morning), a pool deck dotted with shade-giving umbrellas and sun loungers, a cozy spa, an outdoor yoga shala and gym, and a playground for little ones.

Polikandia Hotel

Quiet yet close to the town square, Polikandia Hotel earns high marks for its location, ambience, and warm hospitality. Guests remark about the friendly service and no-ask-too-big attitude. Accommodations range from newly built superior rooms to a suite named after the famous palace of Knossos. Plus, the outdoor pool is perfect for cooling down after sightseeing.

Pasithea Folegandros

With dreamy views of Agali Beach and rates that won’t stress your wallet, Pasithea Folegandros appeals to travelers seeking a simple, sun-sand-and-sea type of vacation. It’s an easygoing place to enjoy fresh fish at the terrace restaurant and swimming in the Aegean Sea.

Best Things to Do

Chora

“The picturesque main town (Chora) is a must-visit for its charming Cycladic architecture, narrow alleys, and stunning views over the Aegean Sea,” says Poly Giouri, a local Folegandros-based tour guide “Wander through its labyrinthine streets, do some shopping, enjoy a meal or a drink at a local taverna or cafe, and visit the Church of Panagia perched on the cliff.”

Agali Beach

Located on the southern coast of Folegandros, Agali Beach draws locals and visitors with its crystal-clear waters and beautiful rocky surroundings. It’s lovely for relaxing, going for a swim, and soaking in the atmosphere. “There are also some local tavernas nearby where you can enjoy fresh seafood,” adds Giouri.

Katergo Beach

Travelers keen to visit Katergo Beach will need to hop on a boat or gear up for a challenging hike. A place steeped in natural beauty and seclusion, the turquoise waters and rocky cliffs make it a favorite among adventurers and nature lovers.

Ano Meria

For a glimpse into rural life on Folegandros, head to Ano Meria, a traditional village in the northern part of the island with unique dry-stone walls and terraced fields. Giouri recommends visiting the Ecological and Folklore Museum to learn about local traditions and agriculture, as well as the local bakery.

Livadaki Beach

A hidden gem accessible via a walking path from Ano Meria or by boat from Agali Beach, Livadaki Beach supplies tranquility, stunning scenery framed by cliffs, and shade under tamarisk trees. According to Giouri, it’s great for those seeking a quieter alternative to the more popular spots.

Best Restaurants

Papalagi

One of the most beloved and beautiful restaurants on the island, Papalagi sits atop a rocky cliff and looks out over the impossibly blue waters of Agios Nikolaos. The food and chill ambience only add to the gorgeous setting. It’s a sublime spot for a leisurely lunch of Greek salad, grilled local octopus, and malagousia, a Greek white wine.

To Barbounaki

While there’s no shortage of eateries to get your seafood fix on Folegandros, To Barbounaki continues to pack its seats with happy patrons thanks to fresh ingredients and the culinary chops of chef Konstantinos Dalianis. You can’t go wrong with the calamari, grilled fish of the day, and lobster pasta.

Chic Restaurant

With green tables that spill out from the patio to the street and a location in the center of Chora, it’s hard to miss Chic Restaurant. Snagging a last-minute reservation in the summer? That’s a bit more difficult (though not impossible). The pork souvlaki and local lamb with prunes have earned it many repeat diners.

Irini’s Tavern & Grocery Store

Irini’s Tavern & Grocery Store in Ano Meria feels like sitting down for lunch at your grandma’s house — if her shelves were stocked with canned goods and sundries. Instead of a menu, diners are greeted with “today we have X, Y, and Z.” That usually includes traditional pasta (matsata), meatballs, slow-cooked pork, Greek salad, and fried potatoes. Everything is delicious.

Piatsa Restaurant

The sun-bleached blue tables at Piatsa Restaurant are situated in a central courtyard and side terrace. In the late afternoon and well into the evening, diners come from all over the island come to share baked chickpeas, homemade pasta with goat in a lemon sauce, and roasted pork.

Best Time to Visit

Folegandros reaches its tourism peak in the summer. And though it never reads particularly busy, there’s a bit more happening in June, July, and August. It tends to be quiet and relaxing in the late spring and early fall. The mild Mediterranean climate makes for pleasant weather, too. Avoid the winter as it can be very windy and most things close for the off-season.

How to Get There

Most travelers connect through Athens and fly into Santorini since it’s the closest airport to Folegandros. From there, it’s a 50-minute Seajets ferry. It’s also possible (albeit pricier) to charter a private boat from one of the nearby islands and turn it into a sightseeing day. Prefer to skip the sometimes rocky seas? Hoper operates scheduled helicopter flights to various Aegean destinations.

How to Get Around

Folegandros is a relatively small island, but the rocky, mountainous terrain makes it tough to navigate entirely on foot (though some people do attempt to hoof it). Your best bet? Rent a car or quad. Just keep in mind it’s hilly and some of the more remote roads aren’t paved, so driving here isn’t for the faint of the heart.