Welcome back to Highly Opinionated, an ongoing series where Eater’s editors delve into one specific, oft-debated food favorite in Los Angeles. Previously, we discussed the city’s best New York-style pizza, tacos al pastor, pad thai, and tuna sandwiches. This edition takes a closer look at Los Angeles’s best French dip sandwiches.

When it comes to the pantheon of sandwiches, the French dip isn’t always considered among the greats, like pastrami, Italian submarine, and hell, even tuna melts. But the humble French dip, sliced meat tucked into a roll or other plush bread with either a side of jus or pre-soaked in gravy, has one endearing quality: It was invented in Los Angeles. Two establishments with over 100 years of history have argued they came up with the dish: Philippe the Original and Cole’s French Dip, both in Downtown.

The French dip was invented in Los Angeles

A few years ago, Thrillist actually got to the bottom of who between the two icons invented the French dip, and more credibility leans toward Philippe the Original, whose owner Philippe Mathieu was documented in the 1950s saying he dipped pieces of bread for a fireman in the gravy at the bottom of the roasting pan, and “right away five or six others wanted the same.” Today, French dips are fairly common sights around Los Angeles, with the two alleged inventors still vying for customers. Philippes’ sawdust-covered counter is a perfect way to score a snack before Dodger games while Cole’s stays open late for its bar crowd in Historic Core, pairing Old Fashioneds with French dips sandwiches.

What I look for in a French dip

Follow the lead of the proverbial fireman who asked Philippe Mathieu to moisten his bread prior to eating his sandwich. A proper French dip employs jus, or gravy, to soften potentially day-old bread, melding tender slices of beef, pork, or lamb into a meal. Philippe showcases their hot mustard while other places like to offer melted cheese on their dips. Whenever possible, I tried to order my sandwiches without cheese so I could focus on the dynamic between the bread, jus, and meat. I also ordered only beef sandwiches to stay consistent, even though it’s likely that the first-ever French dip was made with pork.

To me, the best quality of a French dip happens at the intersection of the three primary ingredients, when the jus not only moistens but actually creates a souffle-like texture between meat and bread. Philippe’s does this very well since servers pre-dip the bread halves before serving. Crusty artisan bread tends to perform poorly because even the jus will fail to properly soften the crumb. The best French dips have plush, spongey rolls that nearly melt away at contact with jus.

The overall favorite: Phil’s Deli & Grill at the Original Farmer’s Market

Matthew Kang

Owners Cesar Brelaz and Francisco Carvalho, took over Phil’s Deli & Grill, which initially opened in 1975 at the Original Farmers Market in the Fairfax District. When they bought it, the two decided to keep the name because they “believe in great quality for a very fair value.” Located across Magee’s Kitchen, a meat roaster that highlights its own French dip with hand-sliced roast beef, I was amazed by the execution at Phil’s Deli, a relatively unsung stall that offers classic counter seating to see workers in action in the kitchen.

Here, cooks freshly sliced beef brisket so that layers melt in the mouth. Couple that with the proper soft French roll that is pre-dipped to create that layer of moistened bread, and you have my platonic ideal. There’s an extra cup of jus, which offers profoundly savory beef notes, like a bone broth with the salt tipped to a 9.5 out of 10. All together, the sandwich becomes so tender that someone doesn’t even need teeth to eat it — and I genuinely mean that in a good way. 6333 W. Third Street, No. 540, Los Angeles, CA 90036.

The luxurious prime rib rendition: South Beverly Grill

Matthew Kang

Willing to spend a few more bucks and enjoy a “bar and grill” ambience plucked straight out of the ’90s? That’s South Beverly Grill, a branch of the Hillstone group that serves a stellar prime rib French dip served on what looks like crusty baguette alongside a side of fries. (This same French dip is available at other Hillstone and Houston’s restaurants around Los Angeles). Thankfully, my fears of mouth-scrapping bread were allayed when picking this sandwich up. The bread is strategically chosen: delicate and spongey, like a poser loaf at Whole Foods that wishes it was made with full sourdough. Yes, this is a basic loaf that highlights the meat, which is prime rib beef sliced so thinly it nearly crumbles.

The overall effect is something luxurious, especially when accompanied by a little teacup of jus that tastes good enough to sip on its own. The fries are fantastic too: similar to In-N-Out’s. but actually crisp on the outside. Dab on some creamy horseradish for something somewhat more forgiving than Philippe’s nose-searing hot mustard. Pro tip: ask for a hot towel — one of this restaurant’s signature menu items — to prepare your hands for this drippy, saucy onslaught of flavor. 122 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90212.

The top pastrami French dip: Johnny’s Pastrami

Matthew Kang

Pastrami is everywhere in Los Angeles thanks to the city’s ubiquitous fast-food diners. Johnny’s Pastrami, a former roadside diner in West Adams, has gone a bit upscale thanks to new owners and chef Danny Elmaleh reshaping the menu. However, the thin-sliced curly pastrami sandwich is mostly the same, pre-dipped on a hefty French roll and served with what looks (and feels) like a pound of meat. The pastrami’s curly shape does not allow for a neat stack of meat, but the whole specimen just works — the cured, slightly smoky meat interplaying with the soaked roll. 4327 W. Adams Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90007.

Other great French dips to try around LA:

Matthew Kang