The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Chè Thái ice cream at Wanderlust Creamery in Atwater Village
In a city chock-full of terrific ice cream options, from drugstore standby Thrifty to the premium scoops at Carmela, Wanderlust Creamery stands out for its globally-inspired flavors that scratch an itch for discovery. On a recent visit, the chè Thái flavor called out with its rich coconut cream base and a colorful melange of jackfruit and rambutan bits, tropical fruit jellies, and pandan-coconut “noodles.” The impressively creamy sorbet captured everything I love about Vietnamese chè in frozen form. To pair with the seasonal special, I selected the Vietnamese rocky road for a Vietnamese double-header. The condensed milk marshmallows, caramelized cacao nibs, and French roast bits scattered throughout the Vietnamese coffee ice cream didn’t miss. If my order at Wanderlust provides any indication, I am overdue for a trip back to Vietnam. 3134 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor
Duck confit korokke at Budonoki in Virgil Village
I think I have a natural predilection towards liking korokke, a Japanese potato croquette, from eating potato knishes in my childhood. The last great rendition of the dish I had was at Rintaro in San Francisco, so I was especially excited to see it on the menu at the H Woo and Budonoki collaborative dinner. For me, the ideal korokke has to be crispy and fragile on the outside with a rich and silky interior, and this duck confit korokke hit the mark. Cutting into it with my chopsticks led to an audible crackling noise, which is always a good sign. The filling was rich and luxurious, with a pleasant saltiness from the confit and the perfect mashed potato texture. If only I could somehow stock these in my freezer for daily snacking. 654 Virgil Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90004. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor
Strawberry-unagi temaki roll at Norikaya in Koreatown
Chef Akira Back started his global empire at Yellowtail in Las Vegas following the Japanese lounge formula established by many restaurants in Los Angeles, and the chef has taken the medium to new heights over the years. His newest restaurant, Norikaya, operated with partner Robert Kim, goes into a sleek counter-only space in Koreatown serving a variety of temaki dishes and prepared Japanese courses that are meant for lighter, but still inventive dining in a neighborhood full of Korean restaurants. The Korean-born Back understands the assignment, given his three-year tenure at Korean barbecue restaurant AB Steak inside the Beverly Center, fulfilling more polished versions of familiar dishes. The unagi temaki roll comes with perfectly ripe strawberry slices that bring a tart, sweet foil to the rich freshwater eel. A modest glaze of sweet-salty eel sauce and the crunch of cucumber round out the mini seaweed taco, making for a delightful way to close out a meal at Norikaya. 554 S. Western Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90020. — Matthew Kang, lead editor
Roasted duck special at Roasted Duck by Pa Ord in East Hollywood
Roasted Duck by Pa Ord, which sits in the same space as the original Pa Ord that owner Lawan Bhanduram opened more than two decades ago, is a study of a restaurant with a singular, near-obsessive focus. The namesake dish permeates all sections of the menu: served with golden grains of fried rice, submerged in soup or herbaceous green curry, studded with bright chiles and basil leaves, and nestled alongside jade noodles and sauces. Perhaps for security, diners can also order dishes with chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp, but the headliner is clearly duck, which arrives with its glistening, crackling skin smothered in a gravy-like sauce, falling apart at the touch. Chef Bob Vongfanikul, tapped by Bhanduram to open the restaurant, prepares each dish to order in the narrow, buttery space, and seats most of its visitors at the counter (a row of crispy ducks waiting to be cut hangs on a rack in its foreground). The duck special for one — sliced roasted duck, vegetables, a vinegary soy sauce with chiles, and a side dish like jade noodles or rice — is enough to serve two, which gives the place a high affordability factor, too. 5136 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager