Let’s be clear: Despite being the state dish since 1977, there is no definitive “real” Texas chili recipe. Chili cook-offs are serious business, and Texans have strong beliefs about what constitutes a “bowl of red.” Should masa be used? How about tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, or tomato sauce? Hunks of beef chuck roast, or will any stew meat do? Served with cornbread or tortillas? Pretty much the only consensus is that in chili con carne (that is, chili with meat) no beans are allowed.

According to the state, only a Texan can prepare an authentic batch. So if you’re not from the Lone Star State, perhaps it’s safest to call this a Texas-style chili recipe. It gets its heft from a 5-pound brisket and earthy warmth from dried Ancho chiles, canned green chiles, and a flurry of spices. Butternut squash rounds out the stew, which may seem like an outlier but, in fact, has long been a player in the Texas beef chili chronicles.

Braising the beef in a Dutch oven allows for evaporation (the kind you can’t get in a slow cooker or Instant Pot) and intensifies the broth. Opt for a Mexican lager, like Modelo or Pacifico, avoiding anything too hoppy or bitter. If you need an alcohol-free option, swap in beef broth or simply use water—there’s plenty of flavor here to make this the best chili you’ve ever tasted.

Sorry to mess with Texas, but there are other (very delicious) chili recipes in the world, like vegetarian chili with Fritos and sour cream, ground turkey chili enriched with smoky chipotles in adobo, and a white chicken chili thickened with…shh, smashed beans.