Whether you grate it or melt it, piloncillo adds a subtle burnt-edge sweetness to drinks, desserts, and more. If you’ve never worked with this variety of raw, unrefined cane sugar before, you might be intimidated by the solid brown cones found at Mexican and Latin American grocers. But it’s easier to use than you may think, and very much worth the effort. “The flavor is essential to Mexican cooking, and it’s just very distinctive,” says Iliana de la Vega, chef owner of El Naranjo in Austin. Here’s everything you need to know. 

What is piloncillo? 

Piloncillo is an unrefined cane sugar that might also be labeled as papelón or panela. “It’s essentially raw sugar,” says de la Vega, who grew up in Mexico City. In Mexican cuisine, piloncillo is used to sweeten drinks like aguas frescas, atole (including chocolate-flavored champurrado), tepache, and café de olla. It’s also used as an ingredient in savory dishes and desserts that span from moles to pan dulces (sweet breads). “In Oaxaca there are maybe 10 to 20 breads that are flavored with piloncillo,” de la Vega says.

To make piloncillo, sugar cane juice is boiled down, poured into molds, then left to harden. Though piloncillo can come in any shape, it is often sold in cones. (Piloncillo translates to “little loaf.”) Despite its color, piloncillo is different from brown sugar, which is a refined product that is usually made by combining white sugar with a small amount of molasses. Piloncillo is healthier than refined sugar and has a lower glycemic index, de la Vega says. 

What does piloncillo taste like? 

Though it’s sometimes called Mexican brown sugar, piloncillo is much more complex in flavor than regular brown sugar, with earthy undertones and notes of vanilla and cinnamon.

“Brown sugar is just sweet — you get one layer of flavor,” de la Vega says. “Piloncillo tastes sweet, of course, but it’s a little bit bitter and acidic, too. Sometimes it even tastes like cinnamon, though there’s no cinnamon in it. It’s very special.” 

How to measure and use piloncillo 

Piloncillo typically comes in packaged one-ounce cones, which is why most recipes call for piloncillo in ounces or cones rather than traditional measurements. To break down a piloncillo cone, grate it using a Microplane or finely chop it using a knife. If it’s too hard to work easily with, de la Vega says you can microwave it for a few seconds out of the packaging.

You can also make a piloncillo syrup, says de la Vega, which is the easiest way to incorporate it into beverages like coffee or aguas frescas. Bring one piloncillo cone and about one and a half cups of water to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the piloncillo dissolves and reduces into a syrupy consistency, about 15 minutes; to make it more concentrated you can boil it down for a longer time. The ratio of piloncillo and water might vary depending on your recipe. 

How to buy piloncillo 

Depending on where you live in the U.S., piloncillo might be available at larger grocery stores, but it is widely available at Mexican or Latin American grocers as well as online. When shopping for piloncillo, you’ll find two varieties: blanco (blonde) and oscuro (dark). De la Vega prefers the blanco since it’s generally more versatile. The oscuro will have a stronger, more molasses-like flavor. 

How to substitute for piloncillo

If you can’t find piloncillo, de la Vega notes that you can use dark brown sugar. However the flavor is not a 1:1, and you’ll get less of those complex burnt-sugar notes. You can also use any kind of raw, unrefined sugar, such as Indian jaggery.