Years ago, Oaxaca City flew under the global tourism radar. Hardcore foodies made a pilgrimage to this southern Mexican state to sample its famed moles and mezcal, but it otherwise stayed free of mass travel. In the last decade, however, writers and influencers have focused the spotlight on this magical region, and it’s easy to see why. Walking the cobblestone streets, one falls in love fast with the colorful buildings, jubilant festivals, and art-filled markets. While Oaxaca may have too many tourists, a preserved historic center and commitment to its artisan heritage have helped the city maintain its identity. That includes the state’s deep ancestral roots in mezcal production.

If you’re looking to learn more about the agave-based spirit on a trip to Mexico, this guide will help you edit down the list of places to taste in Oaxaca.

Tasting mezcal in Oaxaca City

Mezcaloteca

The best way to dive into mezcal is to sip pours side-by-side like a wine tasting. Mezcaloteca, an appointment-only tasting bar, provides an intimate seated experience for comparing small and limited production mezcals you’ll never find outside of Mexico. Whether you want to compare varieties (think Pinot Noir versus Grenache), different production methods (ancestral versus copper), or different regions (Oaxaca versus Michoacan, you’ll get around 90 minutes to do it. The knowledgeable, English-speaking staff guides you through the differences after letting you kiss each spirit three times before jotting down impressions and tasting notes.

Sabina Sabe

A Word’s 50 Best cocktail bar, Sabina Sabe is easy to find: Look for the teal exterior and slip through the wood plank door to chat with the host. Don’t let a little gatekeeping intimidate you, however. Given its reputation and commensurate demand for limited spots, the owners need a system to control crowds. Consequently, it’s best to have a reservation. If you can’t be bothered or prefer a serendipitous drink, go early and ask for a bar stool. Despite its popularity, friendly bartenders have zero pretenses and will help you navigate the regional ingredients driving the cocktail recipes. The point of view here is creative drinks, though neat pours of mezcal are possible.

Selva

Finding this second-floor cocktail den off Oaxaca’s main drag takes a little effort. Only a discreet sign in brass hints that you’ve landed at X on the treasure map. To approach the entrance of Selva, pass through a planted courtyard in a historic building and ascend a staircase tucked away in the back. Once upstairs, a host will greet you – or, rather, check if you have a reservation. Like the other World’s 50 Best bar in town, the space is too small for the number of enthusiasts vying for seats. Selva, however, is as popular for its vibe as it is for the inventive drinks. Mid-century décor of wood-paneled walls, brass accents, and velvet and leather club chairs would feel at home in New York City save for the selva and agave plants and touches of Oaxacan art. Cocktails incorporate regional native ingredients with a range of spirits, including mezcal, tequila, and rum. Purists will dive into the generous selection of mezcals.

Los Danzantes

Set on the ground floor of the same building as Selva, this transporting restaurant sets the mood for romance with its spectacular open-air courtyard and charming staff that seems to be pulled off the stages of Broadway. Going on 20 years, Los Danzantes (Spanish for “the dancers”) recently earned a Michelin Green star. The chef uses seasonal Oaxacan ingredients sourced from the restaurant’s organic garden or small growers, following a zero-waste policy, and the restaurant produces its own mezcal. The signature dish, a deceptively simple hoja santa filled with goat cheese and smothered in warm tomatillo sauce, pairs well with a sample flight of single-species mezcals.

Mis Mezcales

After a few days of tasting, you might want to pick up a bottle or two to take home. Visit Mis Mezcales, a retail shop set inside a cobalt blue building in downtown Oaxaca. The owners offer an excellent selection of artisan producers here and at their Mexico City location. You can make an appointment for a private tasting at the art deco building in Roma, should the start or end of your trip funnel you through the capital.

Visit mezcal palenques in Oaxaca

When in wine country, you visit wineries. When in mezcal country, you head to a palenque. Here are two that stand out.

Mezcal Amarás

Founded by Santiago Suarez and Luis Niño de Rivera, longtime friends from Mexico City, Mezcal Amarás offers a well-considered introduction to the mezcal production process. Before the makers harvest a single piña, Mezcal Amarás collects and sorts the best seeds of the strongest agaves during the plant’s reproduction period. The company plants 18 types of agave, including Espadín, Tobalá, and Jabalí, which facilitates a portfolio of single-species and blended mezcals. Visitors can choose from several tastings, ranging from a one-hour comparative tasting to three-hour experiences that include a tour and tasting with a breakfast or lunch of traditional Oaxacan dishes like black mole and tlayudas (large crispy tortillas with various toppings). Book online at mazcalamaras.com.

Real Minero

If you’re eager for an in-depth tasting experience, consider a guided tour with Real Minero. The brand has earned a reputation for its commitment to sustainability and breaking the patriarchal passage of generational mezcal production since 2022 F&W Drinks Innovator Graciela Ángeles Carreño took the helm after her father died. Real Minero seeks to preserve over-harvested wild agave species and encourage biodiversity. You’ll learn about this and more during the three-hour visit to the palenque with a tasting of four spirits. Real Minero offers an immersive weekend visit with transfers, tours, food, and market stops. Inquire for details at realminero.com.mx.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

Otro Oaxaca

Grupo Habita has cornered the boutique hotel market in Oaxaca with this groundbreaking minimalist property hidden in plain sight. The design of Otro Oaxaca integrates brutalist form with raw concrete and brick materials to create a striking interior defined by negative space and clean, hard lines. Guests can book time in the brick-domed subterranean bath and then relax on the planted patio or rooftop with a mezcal cocktail. From $340

Hotel Escondido Oaxaca

The breezy sister property to Otro, Hotel Escondido Oaxaca merges a similar eye for brutalist lines with pre-Hispanic details in a restored colonialist heritage house. The property sits a few blocks off the tourist path, a boon for those seeking a quiet retreat from the festive pandemonium around Oaxaca’s zocalo. The entire hotel is open, airy, and filled with oversized tropical plants. Several levels of terraces offer nooks for hiding with a book or cup of coffee. The kitchen incorporates organic, local ingredients into its Mexican-based menu and handmade tortillas for its tacos while sourcing artisan mezcal from the region’s noted producers. End the day at dusk beneath the pergola-covered bar with a bowl of guacamole, tortilla chips, and a lime-spiked Mezcalita. From $320