The Tenderloin District in San Francisco, often referred to as the Tenderloin or “the “loin,” is one of the city’s most eclectic neighborhoods. It’s also the  one that puts San Francisco’s most dire challenges, from homelessness to the city’s drug crisis, into glaring focus. While San Francisco’s socio-economic inequalities are on display here, so is the resiliency and vibrancy of the city’s communities. Exploring the Tenderloin will make you confront the not-so-pretty parts of San Francisco while also getting to know one of the city’s most diverse, often misunderstood areas.

If you’re planning a trip to the neighborhood or passing through, make sure to visit the dining and drinking establishments that make up some of the best bars and restaurants in the Tenderloin (and a few within an easy walk or bike ride). Whether you’re craving Thai, Korean, Vietnamese, Indian, French-Creole, farm-to-table Californian or pizza, the Tenderloin has you covered at virtually all hours

Known for its delicious beignets, NOLA-style coffee, perfect fried chicken and Southern-style brunch favorites, this cozy Polk Street restaurant captures the essence of New Orleans cuisine. Chef Brenda Buenviaje is renowned, now with a trio of Creole-inspired restaurants in the Bay Area, but this location is where it all started. Make sure you order the flight of beignets, so you can try the classic, chocolate, apple and crawfish renditions. 

If you’re looking for a soft ambiance and to chit-chat with your waiter, this isn’t the place. But if you want generous helpings of authentic Pakistani and Indian food on a budget, then there’s no better spot than cult favorite Shalimar. As one of the first Punjabi restaurants in the Bay Area, the aromatic dishes, rich flavors and abundant vegetarian options have earned this down-home spot the right to eschew a little friendliness. In fact, the rules for ordering and slightly gruff service is part of its charm. A highly recommended favorite is the aloo paratha delhvi, a type of bread cooked in the traditional tandoor oven stuffed with curry potatoes and topped with a drizzle of butter.

This vibrant Thai restaurant, which started in the Tenderloin, became such a hit for its authentic home-style Thai dishes that it spawned two more locations, each buzzier than the last. Renowned for its use of traditional techniques, fresh ingredients and extreme spice, Lers Ros brings the essence of Thailand to the Tenderloin with an extensive menu that offers classic papaya salad, fragrant curries, a perfectly fried sea bass, and surprising garlic frog and alligator dishes.

Find it: Lers Ros, 730 Larkin St., San Francisco, CA 94109; 415-931-6917

Going to a speakeasy within a speakeasy is so peak San Francisco, it’s practically a rite of passage. From the Sherlock Holmes-inspired decor to the hushed ambiance, every detail adds to the mystique of this detective-themed drinking experience, hidden within Bourbon & Branch, one of the pioneers of the city’s modern speakeasy era. With a limited seating capacity of 28 guests, reservations for 90-minute time slots can be made online — and is the only way to get inside. 

While the burglary and looting that occurred after hours here is an example of what can happen in the Tenderloin at night, this popular supper club still offers a swanky live music experience unlike anything else in San Francisco. The space oozes a “grit-meets-glam” aesthetic with blackened exposed brick walls, photo murals, antique velvet, distressed leather and vintage gold finishes. And the new-American bistro menu, impressive cocktail program and live performances by renowned jazz artists make this cool Lower East Side-style club worthy of date nights and special occasions. If you just hang out at the street level bar and lounge, there’s no cover charge. Tickets to each evening’s performance upstairs typically range from $25-$45 per person.

It’s pretty much always soup weather in San Francisco and Turtle Tower makes one of the best bowls in the city. This unassuming, traditional Vietnamese restaurant is famous for its authentic pho, a flavorful noodle soup that has gained a loyal following. With its simple yet satisfying menu, Turtle Tower has become a second home for many in-the-know locals.

Find it: Turtle Tower SF, 645 Larkin St., San Francisco, CA 94109; 415-409-3333

Craving a fusion of flavors? Look no further than Himalayan Pizza and Momo. This charming eatery combines Nepalese and Italian cuisines and makes some of the best pizza in the Tenderloin. Feast on delectable momos (dumplings) and indulge in creative pizza toppings inspired by Himalayan ingredients.

For more classic, New York-style slices, head to this simple shop where slices start at $4.15, a nod to the city’s area code. Its proximity to Polk Street makes it the perfect ending to a night out, while the crispy-chewy thin crust pies and flavorful toppings make it worthy of your cozy nights at home, too. In fact, SFGATE’s food editors recently crowned this no-frills shop as serving the best slice of pizza in the entire city. 

Located within the iconic Phoenix Hotel, don’t be surprised if you spot a touring musician, or even a rock legend, by the retro pool that’s located in the central courtyard of this trendy hotel bar and restaurant. Stepping into this establishment, which is adorned with gilded mid-century decor and copious vinyl, is a little like stepping into a L.A. hotel circa 1964. The hotel’s frequent events, from poolside day parties to drag brunches, make this a great spot to celebrate a special occasion, while the bar’s creative cocktails and proximity to music venues make it a solid option for date night. 

On the border of the Tenderloin and Nob Hill sits Aria, a spot that boasts a creative take on Korean food. The restaurant is especially notable for its Korean fried chicken, but the menu boasts an array of other options including rice cakes, Korean ramen bowls, bento boxes and Korean rolls with a choice of fillings.

Blink and you’ll miss this tiny breakfast-and-lunch spot where the menu is handwritten on a chalkboard and a lone communal table fills the space. Farm:Table reflects San Francisco’s focus on hyper-local, seasonal ingredients; the ever-changing menu is at the whim of the chef and the local farmers markets. You can expect thoughtful egg dishes in the morning along with housemade granola or cereal items, then hearty sandwiches come lunchtime. Prices range from $5 to $25 for humans, but dogs eat free at this cute, friendly spot (yes, we’re serious, scroll down to the bottom of the menu). 

Find it: Farm:Table, 754 Post St., San Francisco, CA 94109; 415-300-5652 

There’s almost always a line for this tiny Vietnamese takeout spot specializing in a super affordable banh mi. The sandwiches are so good they’ve earned national media attention, including from the New York Times.

Find it: Saigon Sandwich,  560 Larkin St., San Francisco, CA 94102; 415-474-5698 

It’s one of San Francisco’s most unique dive bars, modeled after a Scottish castle and serving as a Tenderloin institution since 1960. There’s perhaps no other bar in the city that has offered such a diverse set of programming during its reign — it’s played host to the city’s literary and drama scenes, trivia nights and the sweatiest of dance floors. Today it’s known for its affordable prices and friendly local owner who’s dedicated his life to keeping the history and spirit of Edinburgh Castle Pub alive, even as he considers selling it. Head there for a shot-and-a-beer deal before it’s too late and help keep this iconic establishment running. 

Perched atop the stylish San Francisco Proper Hotel, Charmaine’s Rooftop Bar & Lounge has one of the best views in San Francisco. As the elevator doors open 120 feet above Market Street, guests are greeted with breathtaking views that span the entire city, whether they choose to sit indoors or enjoy the open-air seating. The venue’s opulent interiors, complemented by outdoor fire pits and plush seating, create an inviting ambiance. The menu won’t disappoint either: pork belly skewers, crispy fish tacos and the ever-satisfying Proper cheeseburger are some of the highlights. 

This story was edited by Hearst Newspapers Managing Editor Kristina Moy; you can contact her at [email protected].