You can judge a Korean-Chinese restaurant by the complimentary dessert they serve you after the meal. While sliced oranges are perfectly acceptable (who would say no to a juicy tangy palate cleanser?), I’m really impressed if they set out a little plate of goguma mattang, or candied sweet potatoes, with each piece skewered with a frilly colored toothpick so that there’s one for each customer at the table.
In this recipe, nuggets of sweet potato are deep fried, then tossed in a sugar glaze that hardens into a candy coating. When you bite into a piece, the shattering sweetness gives way to the fluffy flesh of the sweet potato, which is nutty and savory, almost like a roasted chestnut.
Goguma mattang, or candied sweet potatoes, are an especially iconic dessert popularized at the Korean-run Chinese restaurants that serve some of your favorite dishes like jajangmyeon (black bean noodles), jjampong (seafood noodle soup), and tangsooyook (sweet and sour fried pork).
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They’re totally different from the candied yams you might see on a Thanksgiving table, but not far off in flavor. While goguma mattang uses the white-fleshed Asian (Japanese) sweet potatoes, rather than the American yellow-orange sweet potatoes, it plays on the same savory-meets-sweet flavor profile.
The best sweet potatoes for goguma mattang
While this recipe will work with American sweet potatoes, it’s worth the trip to your local Asian grocery store to source the white sweet potatoes, often labeled as “Japanese sweet potatoes”, “Korean sweet potatoes”, “Asian sweet potatoes”, or “batatas”. They’re smaller in size than American sweet potatoes, with a thin mauve-y purple skin that reveals a white or light-yellow color inside.
While this recipe will work with American sweet potatoes, it’s worth the trip to your local Asian grocery store to source the white sweet potatoes, often labeled as “Japanese sweet potatoes”, “Korean sweet potatoes”, “Asian sweet potatoes”, or “batatas”. They’re smaller in size than American sweet potatoes, with a thin mauve-y purple skin that reveals a white or light-yellow color inside.
The tricky part about making goguma mattang can be the dismount, as evidenced by a popular episode of the Korean band BTS’ “Run BTS” variety show. In a now-legendary clip, member Jungkook makes goguma mattang, but the sweet potatoes begin to harden into one large clump as he’s finishing plating. His fellow bandmates dissolve into peals of laughter when he shows them the plate onto which the sweet potatoes have now fused, so much so that he’s able to turn the plate completely upside down and spin it around without anything budging.
- Parchment paper is your friend. When incorporating the sweet potatoes into the candy syrup, it’s important to use a gentle, efficient touch — the less stirring the better — and then spread them on parchment paper so they don’t stick to each other (or your plate!).
- Try them with ice cream. While leftovers can be reheated, I like to eat them cold or served with ice cream!
Goguma Mattang Recipe
- 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable, divided
- 1 pound white-fleshed Asian sweet potatoes (2 to 3 medium)
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 2 teaspoons toasted white or black sesame seeds
1. Heat 2 cups of the neutral oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until 350 F. Meanwhile, peel 1 pound Asian sweet potatoes and trim off any remaining root tips. Cut into rough 1-inch pieces. Line a large plate with paper towels.
2. Working in two or three batches depending on the size of your saucepan, add the sweet potatoes to the hot oil and fry, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the plate.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons neutral oil to a wok or medium nonstick frying pan. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup granulated sugar in a thin layer. Heat undisturbed over medium heat until the sugar is mostly melted, 4 to 5 minutes.
4. Reduce the heat to low. Pick up the pan by the handle and swirl the pan to incorporate the mixture until the sugar is fully melted (do not stir). Add the sweet potatoes and use a heatproof spatula to quickly and gently toss until all the sweet potatoes are just coated with the sugar mixture; do not overstir or the sweet potatoes may start to stick together. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons toasted white or black sesame seeds and toss quickly to coat.
5. Transfer the sweet potatoes to the baking sheet and spread out the pieces so that they’re not touching. Let cool for a few minutes until the caramel on the sweet potatoes hardens slightly. Serve immediately or at room temperature.
Recipe notes: Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to three days. They can be reheated, but I like to eat them cold or serve with ice cream!
(Irene Yoo is a contributor to TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to [email protected].)