I’ve always been fascinated by the Diablo Range.
The magnificent mountains stretch 150 miles from the western Mojave Desert in Antelope Valley north to Mount Diablo and the Carquinez Strait in the East Bay. They seem to roll on and on without end, towering over small towns, sizable cities and bustling highways that sneak by them — a testament to the incredibly powerful seismic forces that shaped the range millions of years ago.
They’re particularly showy in the South Bay and beyond along Highway 101 and Interstate 5 — routes I quite honestly find distracting to drive because the sheer natural beauty stares right at you. It’s unnerving, stunning and amazing all at once.
Smack dab in the middle of the range is where you’ll find Henry W. Coe State Park.
The Bay Area’s biggest state park clocks in at an astonishing 87,000 acres yet remains far less crowded than its contemporaries, leaving miles of trails with panoramic views of the Diablo Range for the taking. The wildlife there is off the charts too, including a nightmarish hairy resident that draws big crowds come mating season.
The weather was perfect on a recent weekday visit, which started at Cochi’s Kitchen in nearby Morgan Hill for the essential hike-ready deli sandwich. The farm-to-table cafe is just off Highway 101, not far from the park’s popular Coe Ranch entrance. I’m predictable and ordered the “Basic B” sandwich with smoked turkey, Swiss cheese and avocado on a soft Dutch crunch roll. The staff was kind enough to whip up a sandwich for me even though it was still serving breakfast.
Into the backpack it went, and I was off.
Henry Coe is known for scorching-hot temperatures in the summer and knee-busting elevation changes, so heed caution and pack for hydration. If you’re going on a summertime hike, start early like I did. A thick layer of morning fog, a staple of any Bay Area trek, had just burned off and given way to temperatures in the 70s when I got going at 9 a.m. The 20-degree temperature swing I saw in just over an hour is very common at Henry Coe, so pack plenty of water, sunblock and a hat. There is not much shade to be had here.
Upon arriving, I was immediately greeted by a variety of active wildlife.
In the span of 10 minutes, I saw two gray foxes, deer, a turkey and a particularly zoned-out turkey vulture sunbathing atop a telephone pole — all before I even started the hike. That’s one of the more special things about Henry Coe; it’s a sanctuary nestled in the mountains less than an hour from the hustle and buzz of major Bay Area cities.
A trail sign in Henry W. Coe State Park.
Eric Brooks Special to SFGATE
Hiking Henry W. Coe State Park in the Diablo Range.
Eric Brooks Special to SFGATE“We want it to be where you go to get away from all of that,” said Wes Gray, natural resources manager of California State Parks’ Diablo Range District.
The park’s name is in honor of the rancher who put his stake into the hills east of Morgan Hill. Henry Coe grew up on a ranch near San Jose and began purchasing land across this region of the Diablo Range, calling the ranch Pine Ridge. Henry Coe died in 1943, and the land was deeded to California State Parks in 1958.
The purest nature can be found in the northeast section of the park. That’s where 27,000 acres known as the Orestimba Wilderness are officially untouched, accessible only to adventurous hikers and those on horseback willing to make the day’s long journey to get there.
“You gotta plan to spend multiple nights out there, and the only way to do it is backpacking,” Gray said. “What’s really unique about Coe is the serenity and the isolation. You go up there, and you can see the stars. It just looks different because you’re further away from development.”
The morning fog, a staple of any Bay Area trek, seen from Henry W. Coe State Park.
Eric Brooks Special to SFGATEThe park’s vast open space was recently the subject of controversy, as state lawmakers and park officials engaged in a conversation to potentially ease off-road restrictions for vehicles in some state parks, including Henry Coe. Per Gray, that isn’t likely to happen at Henry Coe anytime soon. “It’s a big place where we don’t want to change too much,” he said. “We don’t have any firm plans or really see any off-roading recreation coming to Henry Coe because there’s a lot of protective groups … that are very against that.”
Other animals at Henry Coe include several birds of prey like golden eagles and red-tailed hawks, along with coyotes, bobcats, mountain lions, invasive pigs, snakes and mice.
Oh, and tarantulas. Lots and lots of tarantulas.
Naturalist Ken Lavin holds a curly hair tarantula while showing him off to visitors on the Diablo Range in September 2021.
MediaNews Group/East Bay Times v/MediaNews Group via Getty ImagesThousands of the giant spiders live underground in burrows throughout Henry Coe. “They’re there,” Gray said, “but you’ll never see them.”
That is, until mating season. The eight-legged guys appear everywhere come mid-to-late August.
“You’ll know when it’s the season,” Gray said “It’s really common in Coe. They’re black and large. You’ll see them on the roads when you’re driving around. You’ll see these little black things move across the road. They do look creepy, but tarantulas are really slow and hairy. Once you get over what they look like, you’ll realize they’re not trying to attack you at all.”
For the record, I didn’t see a single tarantula while I was at Henry Coe. I did, however, see several T-shirts and other collectibles in the gift shop sporting their hairy image. If tarantulas are your thing (they’re not mine), this is the place to be in October for Tarantula Fest 2023.
Other creepers you should be watching out for at Henry Coe are ticks. Thanks to California’s extremely wet winter, grass at Henry Coe and across the Diablo Range is very tall at the moment. It’s thigh-high in most places. I wiped at least four ticks off me during my hike. Importantly, wear long pants and stop for tick checks often. You’ll be pleased you did.
The Barebottle Brewing Company’s Santa Clara taproom in June, 2023.
Eric Brooks Special to SFGATE
A West Coast pilsner at the Barebottle Brewing Company’s Santa Clara taproom in June, 2023.
Eric Brooks Special to SFGATE
A West Coast pilsner at Barebottle Brewing Company’s Santa Clara taproom in June 2023. (Eric Brooks, Special to SFGATE)
I did the 6.5-mile Frog Lake, Middle Ridge and Fish Trail Loop, which took me about three hours, but there are plenty of other gorgeous hikes here. No matter your appetite for hiking, don’t deprive yourself of a deserved cold beverage at the end of your first or latest Henry Coe experience.
For me, it was the Barebottle Brewing Company’s Santa Clara taproom that did the trick on the way back up Highway 101. It’s about a 15-minute drive once you connect with the freeway. One of its West Coast pilsners hit the spot after another rewarding hike where I avoided any tarantula prowling.