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Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week: April 1

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The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.


A lobster dumpling on a grey plate at Loreto restaurant in Los Angeles.

The lobster dumpling at Loreto.
Mona Holmes

The lobster dumpling at Loreto in Frogtown

First, Loreto’s physical space is spectacular. It’s a former warehouse converted by designer Lena Kohl, who turned it into a modern, inviting room with high ceilings, rust colors, a fantastic back patio, a custom kitchen, and hidden wine drawers in its banquettes. The winding L-shaped bar can easily host those in search of cocktails or a nine-course meal by chef Paco Moran. Moran says Loreto’s tasting menu is a seasonal experiment that’ll take place throughout the year. When each week’s tasting ends its run, some dishes will earn a permanent spot on the menu.

The lobster dumpling, which Moran spells “don pling,” looks like a hybrid of a xiao long bao and jiaozi Chinese dumpling. The glistening pocket of dough is stuffed with Maine lobster, cabbage, Chinese broccoli, carrot, cilantro, and garlic then doused in a flavorful salsa macha. Loreto has some of the freshest seafood in town, so this bite is especially powerful. Eat it in one mouthful and pray it makes a permanent spot on Loreto’s Baja-inspired menu. 1991 Blake Avenue, Frogtown, CA, 90039. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Singaporean chilli crab at Cassia in Santa Monica

Fresh herbs, grilled bread, and a bowl of spicy chili crab.

Singaporean chili crab with clay oven bread and herbs at Cassia.
Matthew Kang

I had a long layover in Singapore a few weeks ago with the sole intention of eating an entire jumbo Singaporean chilli crab all to myself (and maybe sharing a few bites with my family). Alas, the plans were derailed when we had to scour the city for a pack of diapers, no easy task in the wee hours of the night. Thankfully, those chilli crab cravings were appropriately tempered with a visit last week to Cassia, Bryant Ng’s enduring Southeast Asian destination in Santa Monica. Cassia serves a great version that captures all of the flavors without having to pick out any crab meat. Accompanied by clay oven-roasted bread and fresh herbs, the $29 appetizer is studded with enough blue crab to work as a solo entree (I made sure to share with the table). Scoop up some of the spicy, sweet meat and use the bread to mop up the sauce. I’m still on the hunt for a place that does a full chilli crab west of the 405, but Cassia will always work in a pinch. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Branzino alla brace at Mother Wolf in Las Vegas

A whole grilled Mediterranean sea bass on an ornate plate surrounded by a green-tinted slaw.

Grilled sea bass with fennel, lemon, and salsa verde.
Matthew Kang

Is there a more Vegas restaurant in Los Angeles than Mother Wolf? What happens when Mother Wolf opens in Vegas, then? The answers to those questions don’t really matter, especially for the dozens of eager Sunday evening diners at the new Fontainebleau resort restaurant, where chef Evan Funke does a near-perfect facsimile of his Hollywood original. Inside, find soaring ceilings, columns, plush banquettes, and an open kitchen belting out terrific extruded Roman pastas and large shareable secondi. I was especially enamored by the branzino alla brace, sporting just the right amount of charred skin and super-moist flesh underneath. The lemon-fennel-castelvetrano-mint slaw worked as a crunchy, tangy foil with the bright salsa verde keeping each bite interesting. Don’t worry, Angelenos: The grilled fish is also on the Hollywood menu. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Combo plate from Sattdown Jamaican Grill

A bird’s-eye-view of a plastic white container holding various Jamaican food items in its quadrants: green mixed vegetables, reddish rice and peas, caramelized plantains, barbecue jerk chicken, and curry goat.

Curry goat and barbecue jerked chicken combo plate.
Nicole Adlman

Sattdown Jamaican Grill sits in a Studio City shopping center also home to a virtual reality playground, a pho shop, and a nail salon. Behind its doors, diners will find a modest market selling Jamaican dry and canned goods like ackee, callaloo, a sweet, dried fruit-pocked bread called Easter bun, and some spice blends made in-house; a handful of indoor seats; and some of the best home-cooked Jamaican food in Los Angeles. Patties served with fillings like jerk chicken and spicy minced beef have a light crust that flakes after caramelizing in the oven. The restaurant, run by chef Tony Hyde and his wife Nini, punches above its weight with deeply spiced, warming flavors in combination plates that include stewed but still-crisp vegetables, plantains, and earthy rice and peas. The move for me here is curry goat and barbecue jerk chicken — a pair a little less rich but no less satisfying than ordering Sattdown’s goat with braised oxtails. The plate proved hard to put down. 11320 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City, 91604. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

K-Pop at Supamu in Koreatown

A rice-filled dish with spam and egg held by a hand.

Okinawan onigiri from Supamu in Koreatown.
Rebecca Roland

The closure of Michin Dak left a hole in the Koreatown dining scene on the corner of 6th Street and Catalina. Gone was the inexpensive lunch and dinner spot with its bountiful fried chicken. While Supamu isn’t a revival of Michin Dak, it’s just as good (and reasonably priced). The menu is expansive, offering Okinawan onigiri with toppings like a hash brown, curry croquette, spicy tuna, and a whole fried crab. The spam-and-eggs rendition, called the K-pop, made the biggest impression on me. On top of its spam and egg base, kimchi and corn are added. It’s everything you could want out of an onigiri — salty nori, well-cooked rice, and a rich filling that keeps you coming back for more. 3324 West 6th Street, Los Angeles, CA 90020. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor



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