The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Carne asada burrito at El Ruso truck in Echo Park
Whenever I can’t figure out what I’m craving, the answer is usually a burrito — and more specifically, a carne asada burrito. I do the usual laps around Los Angeles, bouncing from truck to taqueria trying it all. This week, the answer to my heatwave blues was a carne asada burrito from the Echo Park El Ruso truck. The burritos here start with a fresh flour tortilla, which makes all the difference: too many burritos are undone by a flimsy excuse for an outer shell that can’t hold the fillings together. Inside, carne asada, cheese, beans, onion, cilantro, salsa, and guacamole come together for a deeply satisfying bite. 1647 W. Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90026. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor
Hiramasa crudo at Laya in Hollywood
I almost always order crudo when eating out because of its ubiquity and deliciousness. It’s especially satisfying, though, when prepared by chef Charbel Hayek at his new Hollywood restaurant Laya. I was already a fan of Hayek’s food at West Hollywood’s Ladyhawk — Laya’s got a more casual feel, although it’s still quite glam with a Tulum-influenced, neutral-colored patio, beautiful banquettes, and fire pits. A group can gather to share a handful of Middle Eastern dishes. Be sure to order the hiramasa crudo prepared with Hayek’s farmers market haul, including honeydew, horseradish, and serrano pepper. It pairs well with seafood sourced from the Pacific coast and is ideal for warm summer nights. Also try the beetroot hummus, fried kibbeh, and one of the leafy salads with some wine to fully relax. 1430 N. Cahuenga Boulevard, Hollywood, CA, 90028. — Mona Holmes
Aguachile negro at LA Cha Cha Chá in the Arts District
Lunching on the rooftop of LA Cha Cha Chá in the Arts District feels like a vacation with its sun-soaked dining area, laid-back vibes, and coastal Mexican delights. The informal style of service, which requires ordering at the bar and seating oneself on Tuesday through Sunday from noon to 4 p.m., adds to the freewheeling spirit. It’s possible to find exceptional aguachile in nearly every corner of Los Angeles and the one prepared by chef Alejandro Guzman is some of the best, with supple, barely cooked shrimp in a wonderfully spicy dressing along with cucumbers, radish, and avocado. The accompanying tostadas are the perfect crunchy vehicle to balance the aguachile’s heat and tang. 812 E. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor
Dry-aged ribeye “galbi” at Yangban in the Arts District
Yangban in its current form has not only found its stride, it’s become fully formed as a modern Korean American restaurant that seems to resonate with Los Angeles’s dining crowd. Last week, I paid a visit on a Monday and the dining room was bustling, filled with all kinds of diverse folks digging Katianna and John Hong’s dimly lit, stylish ambience. Above all, the food excelled, with perfect renditions of the restaurant’s now-classic sujebi and uni-topped shrimp toast. The star, however, was the dry-aged charcoal-grilled ribeye coated with a gently sweetened galbi sauce. This showstopper offered all of the complexity of great Korean barbecue but with the funky undertones of dry-aged beef. Served with a stone pot of buttery, corn-topped steamed rice, this dish spoke to our table of three LA-raised Korean Americans who swooned over this thoughtful homage. Simply put, it’s one of the best dishes of the year, and easily a must-order for anyone who hasn’t been to Yangban in a while. 712 S. Santa Fe Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90021. — Matthew Kang, lead editor