The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
King crab ceviche at Boa Steakhouse in Manhattan Beach
Brendan Collins could be one of LA’s most talented journeyman chefs. He was most recently at Fia and Fia Steak in Santa Monica, and is now overseeing the chain of Boa steakhouses. Its newest Manhattan Beach outlet opened a few years ago and a menu refresh is a welcome change. One of Collins’s missions was to spruce up the appetizers, like this king crab ceviche served with plump, sweet crab surrounded by a bright orange pool of passionfruit leche de tigre. Studded with fresh grapefruit, radish slivers, and pea puree, the tangy starter transported me to somewhere in the Caribbean or South America. In fact, it gave me a strong impression of my meal at Celele in Cartagena from a few years back. Seeing that kind of execution at a suburban steakhouse explains why operator IDG brought on Collins to elevate the offerings. Yes, the steaks are still solid, but now the starters are something to write home about. 3110 N. Sepulveda Boulevard, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266. — Matthew Kang, lead editor
Potato agnolotti Bar Monette in Santa Monica
Potato agnolotti, the lone pasta dish on the menu at chef Sean MacDonald’s Bar Monette in Santa Monica, was inspired by potato croquetas. Since its earliest iterations, the dish has transformed and simplified to highlight the marvelous combination of cultured butter and caviar. The dozen or so potato-filled parcels are served in a warm and glossy sauce fortified with butter, caviar, and chive oil. The flavors are mellow but distinct, playing well with any number of dishes served alongside, whether a sweet and spicy calabrese and honey pizza or a tropically tinged radicchio and passion fruit salad. I have a special place in my heart for pasta dishes that taste like loaded baked potatoes, and this one fits in the canon nicely. 109 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401 — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor
Smoked turkey leg at the Renaissance Pleasure Faire in Irwindale
I had one thing on my mind the entire drive to Irwindale for the Renaissance Pleasure Faire: a turkey leg. Yes, the shops and shows are great, but I made the trek for a hunk of smoked meat larger than my arm. Weaving through the dusty grounds, I spotted the turkey leg sign and its accompanying line at the back of the food court. It moved surprisingly quickly, and, within minutes, I was staring down at an almost intimidating piece of turkey. Settling into a spot in partial shade, I rotated the leg, considering the best course of action, before arbitrarily picking a corner that looked inviting. The first bite was of deeply roasted salty skin, which gave way to tender meat inside. It took a team effort to make a dent, and even once everyone was satisfied, the bone was far from clean. Unfortunately, the Renaissance Pleasure Faire wrapped this past weekend, so those looking to enjoy turkey leg serendipity can try next spring. Santa Fe Dam, Irwindale, CA 91706. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor
Boat noodles at Sapp Coffee Shop in East Hollywood
Today, we’re going to talk about strategy, which is a requirement when dining at Sapp Coffee Shop in Thai Town. Go with a group that shares similar tastes and order at least five different dishes from the 90-plus item menu. While sitting in the unfussy dining room, study the restaurant’s website and take in the photos from the 1970s, depicting the former site of the Hollywood Motel, which had a diner during the day and a Thai restaurant at night. This is one of LA’s most celebrated old-school spots, where one can dive into roast duck over rice, pad see ew bursting with vegetables, deep-fried soft shell crab, and incredible boat noodle soups. Though the most popular boat noodle soup is the beef variety, the beef with meatballs is equally excellent. If dining solo, just put your face down into the aromatic and steamy broth filled with rice noodles, sliced beef meatballs, bean sprouts, cilantro, and crispy pork rinds that are still delicious when rendered less firm. Slurp away and anything that might’ve previously been bothering you will evaporate. Be sure to take short breaks with a Thai iced tea. 5183 Hollywood Boulevard, East Hollywood, CA, 90027. — Mona Holmes, reporter
Uni-caviar-ikura at Ito in Las Vegas
The incredible view from the top floor of the Fontainebleau will be a constant distraction from the artful work of the sushi chefs at Ito, a New York City transplant that fits nicely as the marquee culinary attraction of the new Las Vegas resort. Ito was founded in Tribeca by Masa Ito and Kevin Kim, who both worked at Zo in Downtown LA. Its move westward was years in the making but culminated in a truly stunning sushi destination that is currently without peer on the Strip. Leaning on a mostly traditional Edomae approach with pure luxury in mind, this uni-caviar-ikura number is Ito’s signature dish. The tiny cup served with a mother-of-pearl spoon properly balances all the briny, sweet notes of each ingredient, held together by a savory sauce that leaves you scraping the bottom for one last drop. A tiny dollop of wasabi adds a piquant spice that doesn’t overwhelm. The rest of Ito’s parade of sushi and sashimi delves into the ecstatic pleasures of omakase coupled with that phenomenal vista, but dishes like this will be the memories you end up taking home. Reservations for Ito are available here. 2777 S. Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, NV. — Matthew Kang, lead editor