The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Dirty Elvis Wings at Shlap Muan in Long Beach
Few foods are more perfect for the start of fall than a tray of crispy fried wings swathed in a sticky, sweet, sour sauce (to match the air’s crispness and the sounds of football television season soaring in its waves). Enter Shlap Muan, a Long Beach Cambodian restaurant that also pops up at Smorgasburg on Sundays; its namesake means “chicken wings” in Khmer. The headlining Dirty Elvis wings are “violently tended to” in a searing hot wok, although the result is all love: a batch of fatty wings tossed with verve in a glossy, rich caramel sauce that coats each from top to bottom. Finished with thinly sliced green onion and fish sauce-soaked chiles, there’s nothing to not love about this, whether ordering it to eat at home before the big game or making it part of a greater Smorgasburg stall crawl. 2150 E. South Street #105, Long Beach, CA 90805. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager
Strawberry doughnut from the Donut Man in Glendora
While the Donut Man may have a location inside Grand Central Market, something just hits differently about the original stand in Glendora. At mid-morning on a Saturday, there was a small crowd gathered around the walk-up-only window, peering through the glass at rows of doughnuts arranged neatly on racks. Though the chocolate bars and sprinkle-covered rounds were all tempting, I was on a mission for the strawberry-stuffed doughnuts. Whole berries, suspended in a jelly of sorts, are piled between a glazed doughnut cut in half to resemble something that looks like it could be at home at a state fair. By themselves, the strawberries are a bit sweet, but the less-sweet doughnut is there to balance them out. Make sure to get a bit of both in each bite along with lots of napkins. 317 S. Broadway A-1, Los Angeles, CA 90013. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor
Pot pie at Camelia in the Arts District
The former Nabisco factory in the Arts District has been thoroughly transformed into French Japanese bistro Camelia under the care of Tsubaki and Ototo’s Courtney Kaplan and Charles Namba. While the dining room feels warmer than earlier iterations, a bit of its most acclaimed predecessor, Church & State, can still be found on the menu. Riffing on chef Walter Manzke’s iconic escargot — which was served in squat vessels and topped with puff pastry — Camelia serves a pot pie chock-full of abalone, wild shrimp, king trumpet mushroom, and “snail butter” crowned with a laminated crust. An irresistible buttery richness and an appealing textural play between pastry and filling provide the through-line between both dishes. If only all homages could be this successful. 1850 Industrial Street, Los Angeles, CA 90021. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor
Pepperoni pizza with hot honey at De La Nonna in the Arts District
Open since 2021, De La Nonna from Patrick Costa, Jose Cordon, and Lee Zaremba still maintains its early buzz where diners enter for something exciting and fresh. The menu is inspired by Italian grandmothers with Calabrian grilled oysters, whipped eggplant, and bluefin tuna tartare to start. The night is off to a good start when a personalized pan pizza lands on your table in a bright room full of happy people. The deep-crust pizza’s firm crunch is balanced with tomato, pepperoni, mozzarella, and pecorino Romano. De La Nonna feels casual and evokes pure fun, a place where anyone can feel welcome whether in need of a snack, a delightfully sweet frozen spritz, or a slice from the takeaway window. 710 E. 4th Place, Arts District, CA, 90013. — Mona Holmes, reporter