Of all the breweries I’ve visited, none more accurately reflected the owner’s personality than Bagby Beer.
The Oceanside establishment, which ended its decade-long run on Jan. 31, always poured at least 20 beers, all creations of owner/brewer Jeff Bagby and his team.
Each was a fresh take on a historic brew — American amber, Baltic-style porter, German-style lager, English-style bitter. Newfangled unfiltered, hazy IPAs may be all the rage in craft beer circles, but not here.
“These are beers we like, beers we enjoy, beers that have some kind of tradition and story behind them,” said Bagby, 49. “I didn’t have a hazy IPA story to tell. If I made one, it would just be making it to make it. There’s no soul there.”
This unwillingness to chase trends didn’t tarnish Bagby’s reputation. His awards collection resembles Scrooge McDuck’s bank vault — there’s plenty of gold among his 50-plus national and international medals.
His independent streak, though, couldn’t shield him or his 9,000-square foot restaurant/brewery from COVID-19. Bagby and his wife and business partner, Dande, scrupulously followed official regulations, closing when that was ordered, masking when that was mandated.
Bagby Beer never recovered. Last month, the couple announced they had sold to Costa Mesa’s Green Cheek Beer, a brewery that’s well respected. Even if they do make the occasional hazy IPA.
The Bagbys have agreed to stay on. Jeff seemed especially happy that Green Cheek offered jobs to all the current employees. As grateful as he is for this silver lining, Bagby’s still laboring beneath a dark cloud.
“My life’s dream, my work and everything at this point is coming to an end,” he said.
Buzz Cuts
Brandon Keaton gives a haircut at his The Ritual Experience barber shop.
(Courtesy photo)
The cost of a haircut at Tailored Hair, a 12-chair barber shop in the East Village? $65. The beer? Free.
Lizzy Broughton, Tailored Hair’s owner, noted that most of her clients lead hectic lives, balancing the varied demands of work and family.
“When they get the beer,” she said of her customers, “it’s almost a symbol. It’s like, OK, I’m going to chill for a minute.”
Since 2017, California has allowed salons and barber shops to offer patrons beer or wine during business hours. While not all clip joints offer refreshments, a fair number find this is a popular extra in a competitive industry.
“They love it,” said Brandon Keaton, owner of The Ritual Experience, “especially after a hard long day, getting out of the house, spending some time here, get a beer and having some cool barber shop talk.”
Keaton said some of the clientele treat his Scripps Ranch shop as a “man cave.”
“They might end up staying here longer,” he said, “maybe watch the game,” Keaton said.
At the Sovereign barber shop in North Park, customers are treated to ales from a nearby craft brewery, GOAL. Sometimes.
“We’ll offer it when we do have it,” said Rennan Pizarro, the owner.
Beer, Pizarro noted, is a frill, not a feature.
“We’re trying to sell good haircuts,” he said.
Still, every little frill helps.
At Tailored Hair, that $65 fee includes a consultation, a beer, a haircut, a scalp massage … “And there are fresh cookies we give out at the end,” Broughton said.
The next round
Now: Karl Strauss opened 35 years ago today. Meanwhile, Blind Lady Ale House is celebrating its first 15 years. Join the festivities at karlstrauss.com and blindladyalehouse.com.
Feb. 14: Pure Project is hosting a Valentine’s Day beer and cheese pairing, from 3 to 9 p.m. at all five tasting rooms. $60 for a couple or $32 for singles. (That sentence took a dark turn, didn’t it?) Tickets: purebrewing.org.
Quick Sips, Oceanside Edition
Après Surf California Coastal Ale.
(Courtesy of Peter Rowe)
Après Surf
From: Bagby Beer, Oceanside
ABV (Alcohol By Volume): 4.2 percent
Style: California Coastal Ale
Drink or dump: Drink. Bagby Beer closed this past Wednesday, but its Apres Surf is still on tap at Oceanside’s Mission Pacific Hotel. This blonde ale only hints at the scope of Bagby’s skill, yet it’s clean, crisp and light-bodied.
Northern Pine Brewing’s Walker Lake amber ale.
(Courtesy of Peter Rowe)
Walker Lake
From: Northern Pine Brewing, Oceanside
ABV: 5.9 percent
Style: Amber Ale
Drink or dump: Drink. Appearance: an exuberant, rocky head over a russet body. Aroma: cooked cereal grains. Taste: not-quite-burnt toast, walnuts, orange peel.
Heritage Brewery and Barbecue’s Z to the Power of 3 Foreign-style Stout.
(Courtesy of Peter Rowe)
Z to the Power of 3
From: Heritage Brewery and Barbecue, Oceanside
ABV: 7 percent
Style: Foreign-style Stout
Drink or dump: Drink. Don’t fear the dark! Z is jet black, yes, but fueled by delicious roasted malts. Well-carbonated, this one is smooth and easy on your palate.
Rowe is a freelance writer.