The immersion blender is kind of a controversial appliance among Food & Wine staff. Some find it an unnecessary waste of space that can’t fully replace a standard blender, while the rest of us know how useful this versatile gadget can be. I’m firmly in the latter camp. I use my immersion blender (AKA stick blender, AKA “boat motor”) all the time for everything from chopping a bunch of garlic at once to pureeing butternut squash soup right on the stovetop. 

Until very recently, my immersion blender was also one of the oldest items in my kitchen. My Cuisinart Smart Stick had been going strong since the mid-2000s, accompanying me through an entire food-writing career. It actually outlasted my first KitchenAid stand mixer — the thing was basically indestructible. But after almost two decades of service, it finally gave up. (The motor was actually still working, but the blades stopped spinning.) Crushed, I immediately replaced it with the most recent model, and I’m happy to say that the Cuisinart Smart Stick is both as reliable as always and surprisingly inexpensive.

The secret to this stick blender’s versatility seems silly, but it’s the measuring cup included in the box. The bottom of the cup fits the blender head almost perfectly, with just a little bit of room to let liquid ingredients circulate as you blend. This makes it the ultimate tool for foolproof homemade mayonnaise; you can literally dump all the ingredients into the cup, and then hold down the button until you get a smooth, creamy mixture that doesn’t break. You’ll never have to worry about drizzling in the oil ever so slowly and gradually. The same process works with all kinds of emulsified mixtures, like the pesto and toum that show up frequently on my table.

While my old Smart Stick only had one speed, the current model is variable: You can turn down the dial to achieve more liquid mixtures like mayo or crank it up to reduce chunky vegetables into a perfectly smooth puree. You also get a 3-cup chopper attachment that’s a miniature food processor and a whisk for whipping egg whites into airy meringue.

One annoying design change is the addition of a lock button. You have to press the lock and trigger buttons together to get the motor started, which can be awkward when you’re holding the blender with one hand and need to pour in ingredients with the other. But on the other hand, it’s a safety feature the old version lacked.

I love my Cuisinart immersion blender so much that I don’t actually own a “regular” blender. (I’ll give you a moment to recover from the shock.) The stick blender is less powerful than an upright, though, and it tends to melt frozen items before it can fully blend them: One situation where you might need both types is if you make a lot of smoothies. But if you’re like me and primarily use it for soups and sauces, the Cuisinart Smart Stick is all you need — and will save you some money and precious counter space, at that.

More Immersion Blenders We Love:

Cuisinart Smart Stick 2-Speed Immersion Blender

For $20 less than the variable-speed Smart Stick, this two-speed version is just as powerful and comes with the all-important measuring cup. However, it doesn’t include the chopper attachment.

Breville Control Grip Immersion Blender

The pricier Breville comes with a chopper attachment as well as a full-on upright blender pitcher. It did the best job at crushing ice in our immersion blender tests and could be a great pick if you like frozen cocktails. The ergonomic grip is also comfy to hold in longer blending sessions.

KitchenAid Cordless Variable Speed Blender

Another of the top finishers in our testing of immersion blenders, this KitchenAid adds the extra convenience of a rechargeable battery. With no outlet needed, you can bring it out to the grill or even on a camping trip. It delivered just as much power as corded models, albeit at a higher price. And you do have to remember to keep it charged: A full battery provides enough power for about 10 minutes of blending in total.