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Four Denver restaurant dishes we loved in August

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Metro Denver’s food scene has never been as vibrant as it is today, something The Denver Post’s food writers and the rest of the staff of The Know understand. That’s why we’re out on the town as much as possible. Each month, we’ll provide you with recommendations about a few of the dishes we tried over the previous weeks. Want to hear about them early? Subscribe to the Stuffed newsletter, where we introduce one of these dishes every Wednesday.


Sikil Pak at Xiquita in Denverroado on Tuesday, July 30, 2024. (Photo by AAron Ontiveroz/The Denver Post)
Sikil Pak at Xiquita in Denver on Tuesday, July 30, 2024. (Photo by AAron Ontiveroz/The Denver Post)

Xiquita

Xiquita, the highly anticipated Mexico City-inspired restaurant from James Beard-nominated chef Erasmo Casiano, will be one to watch this year. I learned so much about the purity of corn tortillas and how much can be done with indigenous ingredients like beans, corn and squash.

Xiquita highlights dishes pre-dating the Tex-Mex burrito we’ve all come to know and love. There are a few non-negotiables when you order, like Sikil Pak, a Mayan-inspired dip made with beets and goat cheese, which chefs make into a tostada. And I’d highly recommend the crispy carnitas-style duck taco. You’ll never look at tortillas the same way. — Lily O’Neill

500 E. 19th Ave., Denver; xiquita.co

The al pastor lollipop chicken wings at The Porchetta House, 1510 Humboldt St. in Denver. (Jonathan Shikes/The Denver Post)
The al pastor lollipop chicken wings at The Porchetta House, 1510 Humboldt St. in Denver. (Jonathan Shikes/The Denver Post)

The Porchetta House

As its name suggests, The Porchetta House primarily makes porchetta sandwiches, which are meaty treats filled with pork loin that has been crisped up on the outside. But this little joint — located off Colfax Avenue and behind a squeaky screen door — also prepares chicken drumsticks in a style that you don’t often find in Denver.

Lollipop, or “Frenched,” chicken wings are drumsticks on which the meat is cut and pulled down to the other side of the bone, giving the whole thing the appearance of a lollipop. This makes them slightly easier to eat, and more fun (the Traeger grill site has a good explanation if you are still curious). At The Porchetta House, the large Chicken Lollipop Wings come in three flavors (like the sandwiches): al pastor, sweet chili glaze and original spice. Each is served with a different sauce. My favorite is the sweet chili glaze, and for $12 for seven, they are a pretty good deal. — Jonathan Shikes

1510 Humboldt St.; theporchettahouse.com

The Loco Moco Smashburger at Adrift Tiki Bar & Restaurant in Denver includes two thin patties made from ground beef and chorizo, tonkatsu sauce, sliced cheddar, a fried egg, furikake, microgreens, and
The Loco Moco Smashburger at Adrift Tiki Bar & Restaurant in Denver includes two thin patties made from ground beef and chorizo, tonkatsu sauce, sliced cheddar, a fried egg, furikake, microgreens, and “volcano sauce” on a Hawaiian bun. (Jonathan Shikes/The Denver Post)

Adrift Tiki Bar & Restaurant

I love tropical drinks and, as such, it had been too long since I’d visited Adrift, the unique, 12-year-old Tiki bar on South Broadway. A few weeks ago, when I was there trying two special versions of the bar’s Painkiller cocktails, I also dug into the Loco Moco Smashburger, which was stellar.

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I also love burgers (like this one) that blend beef and sausage or chorizo, but I also appreciate sweet Hawaiian-style rolls. So, the two savory patties and melted cheddar — combined with tonkatsu sauce, a fried egg and furikake spice on the roll — did the trick. — Jonathan Shikes



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