As a travel writer with a fondness for the South of France, my love of its quaint hilltop villages, lavender fields, glimmering beaches, and under-the-radar islands is well-documented. But this enchanting region has more than just pastoral pleasures in store for visitors. The university city of Aix-en-Provence, or simply Aix (pronounced like the letter X), feels quite cosmopolitan with leafy boulevards, 18th-century mansions, and chic shops that have earned it nicknames like the “21st arrondissement” or the “Paris of Provence.” Its grand thoroughfare Cours Mirabeau looks like a film set with leafy trees, historic fountains (Aix is also called “the city of a thousand fountains”), and sidewalk cafés. Art buffs will enjoy the many museums. The large student population imbues a youthful spirit. And the pleasant year-round weather — with over 300 days of sunshine, on average — encourages dining al fresco at the many lovely restaurant terraces.

Here’s how to plan the perfect trip to Aix-en-Provence.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Villa Gallici

A Florentine-style mansion with a Provençal soul, Villa Gallici exudes elegance and grandeur. The five-star Relais & Châteaux property pairs opulent interiors (think: rooms covered in floral wallpaper, glimmering chandeliers, and sumptuous fabrics) and landscaped grounds. The lounger-framed pool terrace and sculpture-dotted private garden are ideal for basking in the sunshine.

Château de la Gaude

Château de la Gaude, a beautiful 18th-century bastide-turned-high-end Relais & Châteaux hotel, puts an emphasis on the deeply French pleasures of gastronomy, wine, and art. The laid-back pace encourages you to linger over a plate of Cavaillon melon and cured ham with a glass of perfectly chilled rosé at the Michelin-rated restaurant before admiring Bernar Venet’s work in the garden.

La Villa St. Ange

For something intimate and stylish that’s within walking distance of sights and shopping, turn your attention to La Villa St. Ange. The five-star hotel offers 34 rooms and suites decorated with patterned screens, silk curtains, tufted velvet sofas, and ornamental ceiling moldings, plus an outdoor swimming pool, an atmospheric cocktail bar, and a celebrated restaurant.

Hôtel Le Pigonnet

Surrounded by lush Mediterranean gardens filled with fragrant flowers, fountains, and topiaries, Hôtel Le Pigonnet provides a pastoral oasis within the city limits. While enjoying provençale cuisine on a terrace shaded by century-old chestnut trees and swimming in the outdoor pool, it’s easy to forget that Cours Mirabeau and Aix Cathedral are just a 20-minute walk away.

Les Lodges Saint-Victoire

It’s impossible not to get swept up in the natural beauty and serenity of Les Lodges Saint-Victoire. The bucolic five-hectare estate punctuated by olive trees, grape vines, and gardens is the ideal setting for a leisurely, sun-drenched holiday. Relaxation comes in many forms, including getting a massage at the spa, floating in the adults-only pool, or treating your tastebuds to dishes at the Michelin-starred restaurant.

Best Things to Do

Stroll down Cours Mirabeau.

Originally built in 1650 to accommodate horse-drawn carts, Cours Mirabeau is a wide, tree-lined thoroughfare that’s long been an emblem of the city. Sophie Epton, a photographer based in Aix-en-Provence and the U.S., suggests starting at the Fontaine de la Rotonde and walking to the end of the boulevard. “Don’t forget to grab a brioche or buttery croissant at Pâtisserie Béchard.”

Grab afternoon tea at Hôtel de Caumont.

Hôtel de Caumont, an art center housed inside a resplendent 18th-century residence in the Mazarin district, shows off elegantly appointed interiors, manicured French gardens, and an idyllic courtyard. “Discover the special exhibitions and stay for afternoon tea with pâtisserie in the salon or outdoor terrace,” says Matteo Labre, concierge at Villa Gallici.

Browse the collection at Musée Granet.

One of the first public museums in France, Musée Granet boasts an impressive collection of nearly 600 paintings and sculptures. Among the many highlights are works by Van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso, and Provence native Paul Cézanne.

Take a walking tour.

While it’s lovely to wander along the narrow streets, one of the best ways to really get to know Aix — and take in its beauty — is a guided walking tour. “Between the historic mansions (the famous hôtel particuliers), squares, and fountains, there’s so much to learn and appreciate,” adds Epton.

Pick up a souvenir at the local markets.

Aix is famous for its markets. “All over the city, you will find different vendors for everything from woven baskets and antiques to regional gourmet products and fresh, seasonal produce. Epton urges visitors not to miss the clothing and artisanal goods market held on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays along Cours Mirabeau.

Best Restaurants

Grenache

“A gem in the heart of Aix, Grenache serves seasonal, modern French food that’s approachable and absolutely delicious,” says Epton. “The menu changes frequently, except for one dessert called Chocolat, a decadent chocolate mousse that’s a must-order!”

Gallifet

Housed in the middle of a shaded courtyard that’s part of a contemporary art gallery, Gallifet (open June 1 to Oct. 1) impresses diners with harvest-driven dishes that look like works of art. “It’s definitely a place where cool, hip locals congregate,” adds Epton.

Kava

Known by locals and clued-in tourists as the best place for brunch in Aix, Kava is a walk-in-only eatery that specializes in all the morning and mid-day must-haves: coffee, sweets, and savory dishes. There’s also a selection of biodynamic wine if you’re in the mood. Epton’s go-to order? The pulled pork pancakes, which she says will “have you practically licking your plate.”

Sauvage

Hailed as one of the most exciting places to eat in Aix, Sauvage is a fine dining restaurant that doesn’t lose sight of fun. Chef Loïc Pétri, who earned his stripes working in Paris before returning to Provence, whips up inspired prix-fixe menus that pair unexpected flavors and textures to the delight of diners.

L’Incontournable

For a memorable lunch or dinner, Labre recommends L’Incontournable. The food and service are both excellent, and patrons can savor creatively presented twists on French classics in the modern dining room or at one of the terrace tables that flank a historic fountain.

Best Shopping

Souleiado

A true Provençal brand, Souleiado (which Princess Diana put on the map when she wore one of the totes in 1981) sells everything from dresses and fitted tops to scarves and bags made out of their colorful, signature prints.

Fragonard

“Walking into Fragonard will flood you with beauty, color, and inspiration,” says Epton. The beautifully displayed perfumes and cosmetics make the store look like a jewel box, and the textiles — long flowy dresses, kaftans, kimonos, and tunics — are stunning as well.

Maison Brémond 1830

Maison Brémond 1830 stocks all sorts of regional products, from honey and jam to olive oil and truffle salt. It’s particularly well known for calissons, a housemade specialty confectionery that consists of ground almonds and candied melon.

Puyricard

Chocolaterie de Puyricard is an amazing chocolatier in Aix, named after the nearby village where the factory is located. The shop makes everything from decadent truffles that look like little gems to marshmallows, caramels, and candied fruit. Everyone will find a sweet treat to love.

Casanera

“While Casanera has a beautiful collection of perfumes, what I really love is the jewelry. The colorful and uniquely designed pieces give the vibe of a getaway to St. Tropez mixed with the fabulous fashion sense of Aix,” says Epton.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (April through early June) and fall (especially September and October) are the best times to visit, according to Labre. Aix gets quite hot and busy in the summer months, so it’s better to come during shoulder season when it’s cooler and less crowded.

How to Get There

The easiest way to reach Aix is either flying into Marseille Provence Airport (it’s about 30 minutes from the city) or taking the three-hour high-speed train from Paris to the Aix-en-Provence TGV station (a short bus ride from the city center).

How to Get Around

Once you get here, central Aix is walkable. “Exploring on foot allows you to marvel at all the beautiful architecture, [which] evokes the feeling of being in a Vincent Van Gogh painting,” says Epton. Planning to take day trips to visit the many charming towns and countryside destinations throughout Provence? You’ll want to rent a car.