Just east of Vallejo is a small waterside town with a colorful past. Benicia, which offers views of the Carquinez Strait, is one of the oldest cities in California, the state’s third capital and once a waystation for miners during the Gold Rush. As the lore goes, a Benicia tavern is where news first leaked out of the gold discovery at Sutter’s Mill.

But even if you’re not a history nerd, there are plenty of compelling reasons to visit Benicia: For one, you’ll find some of the best pastries in the Bay Area here.

Walking into One House Bakery on a very warm Friday morning, I smiled at a chalkboard sign that read, “It’s so hot, I almost called my ex just so I could feel some shade.”

The popular Benicia bakery is enormous, with high ceilings and an open industrial kitchen. At the back of the building, onlookers can peer into glass-windowed “bread rooms” to watch the busy bakers at work. Last year, One House went viral for creating a 6-foot-tall, 400-pound bread sculpture of Han Solo from Star Wars, dubbed “Pan Solo.”

I’d come for the croissant sandwich, which I’d heard was the go-to breakfast here, but fell into decision paralysis when the person behind the counter asked which pastries I wanted. Display cases studded with picture-perfect scones, morning buns, Danishes and fruit tarts all vied for my attention. One House Bakery is run by Hannalee Pervan, an award-winning pastry chef who used to work at Napa Valley’s Bouchon Bakery (the supplier of bread to the French Laundry), so springing for an extra treat here is basically mandatory.

After much deliberation, I opted for a strawberry cream cheese kouign-amann. And a hot coffee, even though it was inching toward 90 degrees, because I’m a maniac.

Fortunately, One House Bakery’s crown jewel is a beautiful two-tier garden patio with plenty of trees to shade you from the summer sun. I set up camp on the top level under a giant acacia tree blooming with delicate pink flowers, its trunk sprouting through the deck.

The croissant sandwich is a very simple breakfast that still manages to be exquisite: a buttery, flaky croissant filled with a thick layer of scrambled eggs and tangy, melted Swiss cheese. Normally, I’m a hot sauce fiend with breakfast sandwiches, but this one was so good I didn’t even reach for any. 

The kouign-amann was a much softer, fluffier take on the French pastry than I’d tried before, but it was also divine — particularly the combination of the sweet cream cheese frosting and tart strawberry jam. Even the coffee was excellent. At the table next to me, a young family swooned over the buttery almond croissants.

I could have lingered in the garden oasis all morning, but I had places to be. 

Benicia is known for its waterfront views, so I set my navigation to the Benicia Marina and slathered on some sunscreen. When I arrived, I was surprised at how much cooler and windier it was by the water (definitely bring layers, even on a hot day). Sailboats bobbed lazily in the water, and a few people walked their dogs along a trail by the waterfront. 

I took a leisurely stroll in the direction of the Benicia Fishing Pier, a peaceful little spot for seabird watching as well as fishing. Along the way, I came across a few historical marker signs with QR codes you can scan to learn more about Benicia’s history. 

One was a marker honoring Jack London, as the famous author lived and worked on the Benicia waterfront in his early years. A brief aside: If you really want to dive into Benicia’s history, take a detour to the Benicia Historical Museum (an 8-minute drive from the Benicia Marina), which is housed on land that was once a military arsenal that supplied weapons to U.S. troops in battles and wars beginning as early as 1849. Ulysses S. Grant passed through its doors, and so did a herd of camels that were housed on site after a failed attempt to incorporate them into the Army as pack animals. The arsenal was officially decommissioned in 1964. 

Just down the street from the fishing pier and a small beach is a smattering of waterfront restaurants, including a seafood shack called Sailor Jack’s and a tony Italian restaurant called Bella Siena. What caught my eye, though, was an adorable little brick shopping mall called the Tannery Building. 

Named for its history as a prominent site for California leather tanning in the early 20th century, the Tannery is filled with charming antique stores and boutiques. The first shop I meandered into was The Little Art Shop, which was part gallery, part gift shop. The shop’s very friendly artist owner helped me try on a pretty silver necklace, which I ended up purchasing. 

From there, I lost track of time wandering through maze-like antique stores, sifting through racks of vintage dresses and pawing through boxes of old costume jewelry. In addition to all the shops, there was also a tiny bar with outdoor seating called Cullen’s Tannery Pub, and a hot dog shop.

I was finally starting to get a little hungry again, but I wasn’t feeling hot dogs. So I hopped back in the car and drove back toward downtown Benicia. 

A few blocks west of One House Bakery sits a nondescript, squat gray building called The Workshop. But rather than tools or home goods, this spot sells something much tastier: po’boys. 

The story behind The Workshop is very sweet, according to Comstock’s Magazine. Owners Danny Glassmaker and Naomi Buskirk were high school sweethearts growing up in Benicia, but went their separate ways after graduation. When they ran into each other at their high school reunion almost two decades later, it felt like fate. The couple reunited, and in 2013, they decided to open a restaurant in their hometown together.

Glassmaker learned how to cook Cajun food in New Orleans from renowned Cajun chef Malcolm Soileau. At The Workshop, he serves a New Orleans-inspired menu of po’boys, gumbo and jambalaya. 

After ordering at the window, I found a seat at one of the outdoor tables. While I waited for my po’boy, I chatted up some friendly Benicia locals feasting on a spread of fried catfish, gumbo and hush puppies. 

My fried shrimp po’boy arrived towering with crispy corn flour-fried shrimp, thick slices of tomato, shredded lettuce and pickles inside a soft French roll. While I’m used to traditional po’boys featuring more of a mayonnaise-y spread, this one had a zesty cocktail sauce, which I loved. It added an extra zip of freshness to all that perfectly cooked, meaty shrimp.

The sandwich was so enormous I could only finish half, which at $14 struck me as a great deal (especially for a lunch with fresh seafood). I wrapped up the leftovers and hit the road. 

As I left Benicia, I was reminded a little of Sausalito, another small waterside Bay Area town with an artsy vibe. But to its benefit, Benicia is far, far less touristy. My day here was coming to a close, but with all the history, pretty views, and incredible grub just a 40-minute drive from San Francisco, I know I’ll be back soon.