Located in the heart of Koreatown, Soot Bull Jip may seem, at first glance, like an average Korean barbecue restaurant, complete with sizzling cuts of meat on tabletop grills, gusts of smoke-filled air, and the familiar clinks of soju glasses. But look closer, and there is something more old-school and primal here — specifically, the grill pits placed at the center of tables filled with hardwood charcoal.

Despite the abundance of Korean barbecue restaurants in Los Angeles, the places that utilize charcoal grills today are few and far between. Historically, Korean barbecue relied on “soot,” a special type of wood charcoal derived from Korean oak. The wood, stripped of all oxygen and vapor, burns particularly clean and pure, producing a high heat that’s optimal for grilling meat. In the late 20th century, however, most restaurants in Korea transitioned over to gas grills for more precision over temperature control and consistency in the preparation of the meats, as well as the ease of maintenance and clean up.

Since it first opened its doors in 1986, Soot Bull Jip —which translates to “charcoal fire house” — has been dedicated to using charcoal grills for nearly 40 years. Owner Nancy Park took over the restaurant at the beginning of 2024, a few months after her mother died. It was something she felt compelled to do to honor her parents’ legacy, though she had never imagined she would run a restaurant; previously, she worked in automotive finance before deciding to take the reins of the family business. In a twist of irony, the restaurant recently changed its longtime name of Soot Bull “Jeep” to Soot Bull Jip, following years of random phone calls inquiring about car models and complaints from local Jeep dealerships on losing sales leads.

With the influx of modern gas grills, Korean barbecue has certainly had its moment in South Korea and beyond. In recent years, a new wave of chefs and restaurateurs have embarked on more upscale, and even experimental, renditions of the communal dining experience, with exotic meats like Australian wagyu and dry-aged American beef, as well as wine pairings or swanky additions like truffle and uni.

“My parents came to America, and they tried operating various small businesses before Soot Bull Jip in Koreatown, hoping to create a comforting and welcoming place in their neighborhood. Ultimately, they opened Soot Bull Jip, which became that [kind of] place,” Park says. “My parents saw food as something that could bring people joy, and they had a community of regulars here. I couldn’t give up on that.”

After the torch passed on to her, Park aimed to stay true to Soot Bull Jip’s specialty, keeping the appeal of charcoal-grilled meats alive for members of the Koreatown community, many of whom have been coming here for decades. “A good proportion of our customers are regulars who have aged with us. It’s common for me to meet patrons who tell me they’ve been coming here for over 30 years,” Park says. She also says the charcoal infuses more of a “bold and smoky flavor” in the grilled meat, something she enthusiastically describes as “chef’s kiss.” Park also believes that many customers have a nostalgic feeling when dining at Soot Bull Jip. For her, it brings to mind childhood family gatherings and backyard barbecues.

The menu at Soot Bull Jip is much smaller compared to its competitors in Koreatown. Combination platters and sets of various cuts of meat that are common at other barbecue restaurants are absent, which means everything is meant to be ordered a la carte. Diners can choose among 11 different protein options, including beef, pork, poultry, and seafood, and can pair them with stews, noodles, and of course, soju and beer. “We just want to keep things simple,” says Park. “And we want diners to be able to customize the experience to their liking.”

Soot Bull Jip’s house specials consist of galbi — or prime beef short rib — which comes slathered in a sweet, soy-sauce-based marinade, and pork ribs, marinated in the same soy-based sauce or a spicier counterpart. Fan-favorite jumulleok consists of prime short rib cut into bite-sized chunks that are coated with sesame oil, garlic, and a sprinkle of salt.

And in stark contrast to other Korean barbecue restaurants, Soot Bull Jip only serves two unmarinated cuts of meat: beef tongue and prime rib-eye steak. Over its lifetime, the restaurant cut down on its unmarinated offerings, which at one point included sseng galbi, or unmarinated short rib, and sogum gui, meat flavored with only salt. Park and her parents noticed that marinated counterparts were far more popular and favored by long-term patrons, likely because the soot’s flames and high heat would bring out a signature smokiness and char that accompanies the slight sweetness.

The accoutrements on the table are also relatively minimal, which allows the barbecue shine. Park explains that the banchan, including daikon radish and steamed spinach, add a freshness that pairs especially well with charred meat.

When it comes to the future of Soot Bull Jip, Park employs a delicate balance of keeping the 38-year-old restaurant true to its roots while helping it grow and evolve. “I think we’ve been extremely slow to change, which is both a blessing and a curse,” she says. “But in the end, we want to keep a continued commitment to our vision. Even after all these years, we still want to be a welcoming place to have a good time.”

Park is eager to expand on the cuts of meat offered on the menu, like bringing back unmarinated short rib and adding Angus beef options. She even put the restaurant onto delivery platforms, in hopes of making Soot Bull Jip’s pre-cooked charcoal-grilled meats available for those to enjoy at home. But Soot Bull Jip is one of those spots in LA where dining in almost feels obligatory. For those who want to experience the magic of Korean barbecue with the charcoal grill, it’s only right to sit by the flames and embrace the smoke, embers, and aroma of barbecue that will inevitably linger on their clothes.

Soot Bull Jip is open from Thursday to Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. at 3136 W. Eighth Street, Los Angeles, CA, 90005. Closed on Wednesdays.

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Prices taken at time of publishing.

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