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LA Taquería Evil Cooks Is Opening a Permanent Restaurant in El Sereno

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The heavy metal-loving couple behind Evil Cooks, chefs Alex and Elvia Garcia, are opening a permanent restaurant in El Sereno on November 12 in the former Antojito Chapines Chicken N Churros space. Called Evil Cooks Corazón Abierto (“open heart”), the restaurant features an open kitchen that seats five diners inside and 25 more on the back patio. The Garcias ended the four-year pop-up from their home on October 5 to focus on the incoming restaurant.

Evil Cooks, one of the most acclaimed and innovative taquerías in Los Angeles, was recently featured in PBS’s Rebel Kitchens and named a James Beard Award semifinalist in 2024. Alex worked his way up from dishwasher to chef over his 24-year career in Long Beach and Riverside, while Elvia worked in various commercial kitchens, including at UCLA, for 17 years. The Garcias entertained dozens of offers for restaurant locations and have been courted by investors, but waited for the right time and place before taking the plunge. “Everything just fell into place. We wanted to wait for our daughter to start school,” says Elvia. The couple is opening the new restaurant without any other business partners.

“We wanted to have a following and El Sereno is where our customers are. Plus, we can just stumble home at the end of the night,” says Alex. At the new storefront, fans of the pop-up will be able to get the Poseidon, a grilled octopus taco marinated in recaudo negro; the McSatan, a bacon cheeseburger taco inspired by Mexico City’s Don Toño; and the Chilakillers burrito, a carb-loaded parcel. “We will have all the tacos, burritos, and tortas we’ve been serving at the El Sereno pop-up and Smorgasburg,” says Alex.

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Also on the menu are special dishes that the Garcias introduced during their pandemic-era Kamikaze tasting menu, including a grilled octopus served over mushroom risotto, a take on fish and chips using butter-poached fish and fried tortilla strips, and baklava “Wellington” made with pork ribs wrapped in phyllo dough topped with pistachios and pashmak (Iranian candy floss). Desserts include sweet corn in a piloncillo (brown sugar cone) atole, sweet potato cooked in piloncillo, and a cannelle in atole de nuez (nuts). Tepache, a fermented pineapple drink, will be available to drink.

The menu and space for Evil Cooks Corazón Abierto reflects Alex and Elvia’s long journey and experiences. “The restaurant is actually a letter to thank everyone, especially Elvia, and obviously my mom, who brought me here to the United States,” says Alex. “It’s for everyone who’s had my back since I was little because that’s when I started dreaming about having my own business.” Evil Cooks will continue to serve at Smorgasburg on Sundays.

Evil Cooks Corazón Abierto is located at 3333 N. Eastern Avenue, El Sereno, Los Angeles, CA, 90032, and will be open from Tuesday to Thursday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. and until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday.

Signs for a street food pop-up called Evil Cooks in LA’s El Sereno neighborhood.

The streetside setup for Evil Cooks during the pandemic in El Sereno.
Evil Cooks





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