We love canned beans as much as the next weeknight dinner warrior, but when beans are the main attraction (as in this lemon-scented white bean soup recipe), you can’t beat the depth of flavor you get by starting with dried. Use creamy cannellini beans, hearty navy beans (a.k.a. white kidney beans), or even big boi gigante beans, but avoid Great Northern beans, which have a mild flavor and are better suited to dressing up as baked beans. Whatever you choose, soak the dried beans overnight and drain the water. (Conscious of your water footprint? Use the excess liquid to water your houseplants.)

We call upon the power of a food processor to make quick work of the aromatics (a mix of diced onion, celery, garlic, and lemon zest), but if you want to avoid lugging it out, chop the vegetables finely by hand before you sauté them in oil, then add in the Microplaned lemon zest. We’ve kept this soup vegetarian, but chicken stock or broth is an easy stand-in for the vegetable broth if preferred. And once you’ve got your pot going, you can have a little fun: Add in a sprig of fresh rosemary, oregano, or parsley; or a few bay leaves. Love heat? A pinch of crushed red pepper flakes goes a long way. Craving umami? Submerge a Parmesan rind in the broth while the creamy white beans bubble away. Or just leave as is for a simple, satisfying bowl of comfort food.

To finish, a knob of butter goes in the pot, adding richness and a rounded flavor, along with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice for brightness. We like this bean soup a little brothy, but if you’re craving something with more body, grab an immersion blender and purée a portion of the soup to thicken it. Garnish with a sprinkle of fragrant herbs or a grating of Parmesan cheese and serve with crusty bread for a captivating soup that eats like a warm, cozy hug.