The New York Times compiled its annual list of “America’s best restaurants,” and a recently opened Polish eatery in Philadelphia made the top 50.
Little Walter’s in East Kensington was one of three restaurants representing Pennsylvania on “The Restaurant List,” which published Monday. Sweet Amalia Market & Kitchen, of Gloucester County, was the only pick from New Jersey. To compile the list, New York Times reporters and editors traveled to “nearly every state” over the past year to scout the top spots.
“With Fishtown already overrun with boutiques and chic restaurants, it was only a matter of time until the overflow spread to nearby East Kensington,” New York Times editor Nikita Richardson wrote about Little Walter’s. “Navigate the tight residential streets and you’ll find this dimly lit, low-slung corner restaurant serving robust and deftly executed Polish cuisine.”
Little Walter’s opened in June at 2049 East Hagert St. The 46-seat restaurant is run by chef Michael Brenfleck, who named the spot after his grandfather that emigrated from Eastern Europe. Richardson said the pierogies at Little Walter’s were “nonnegotiable,” and also highlighted “equally appealing” dishes like the rustic sourdough served with dill butter and smalec (lard), the rotisserie pork and the restaurant’s seasonal take on water ice. The eatery also serves craft cocktails with Polish spirits and liqueurs.
“This recognition means the world to us, and we couldn’t have done it without the love and support of our amazing guests and community,” the Little Walter’s team wrote on Instagram.
Sweet Amalia, which opened in 2021, is located at 994 Route 40 in Newfield. It’s run by Melissa McGrath, who was a semifinalist for Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic during the 2023 James Beard Awards. The market sells raw oysters from a farm located about an hour away on the Cape May peninsula. It also offers “casual, colorful” plates, according to New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells. Some standouts, in Wells’ opinion, are the BLT, falafel, grilled eggplant sandwiches, fried oysters on a grilled buttered roll and Italian cold-cut hoagies. Outdoor picnic table seating is available.
“The place is set up like any other South Jersey roadside farm stand where you might buy a carton of eggs, a bunch of radishes and a basket of strawberries,” Wells wrote about Sweet Amalia. “This farm stand, though, has a raw bar, and naturally, the oysters are exceptional.”
Along with Little Walter’s, the other Pennsylvania restaurants chosen were Fet-Fisk in Pittsburgh and Passerine in Lancaster. Last year’s roundup included three Philly eateries: El Chingon, My Loup and Kalaya.