A classic negroni is the original 1:1:1 cocktail (equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari). “But here’s the problem,” argues former BA editor Julia Kramer, “Equal-parts cocktails don’t always taste so good—palates have evolved since these ratios were codified.” The team at Chiltern Firehouse in London, who created this variation on that classic cocktail recipe, agrees. They tweaked the ratios for modern palates, creating a gin-forward version of the drink to keep the bittersweet Italian aperitivo Campari in check. Sweet, a.k.a. red, vermouth is the third player here, and it’s worth splurging on a good bottle: We like Carpano Antica Formula for its vanilla notes and dry finish, but Punt e Mes or Cocchi Storico are also good choices.

There’s no shortage of negroni riffs out there. Most famous among them is the sbagliato (of “negroni sbagliato…with prosecco in it” fame), which swaps the gin for sparkling wine—think of it as the halfway point between a spritz and a negroni. There’s also the white negroni with Lillet Blanc and a pleasantly bitter French apéritif called Suze; and a boozy punch version of the cocktail with gin and prosecco. You can also play around with other aperitifs: Swap the Campari for lighter Aperol or herbal Génépy. For a wintry vibe, use bourbon in place of the gin, and you’ll have a boulevardier. Want a low-ABV version? Swap out the gin for soda water and the orange peel for a lemon wedge and you’ll have an Americano.