Diner and deli foods are getting a glow-up, with fancified versions of comfort dishes popping up on menus across the country. In this recipe, salmon is given the weeknight-friendly pastrami treatment with a sugar-and-spice blend that creates a smoky crust reminiscent of the cured meat, balanced well against a crunchy fennel slaw. Fresh fillets are brushed with Dijon mustard and dusted with a blend of onion powder, garlic powder, smoked paprika, and brown sugar.

Searing anything crusted in a blend of spices—particularly those that include sugar—yields a deep color and flavorful crust. Resist the urge to take the salmon off the heat too soon for fear of burning; the dark bits of bark on the outside of pastrami are the best parts, and the same is true for this fish.