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There’s something so indulgent about brunch. The mid-morning to early afternoon meal is somehow a license for us to relax, slow down and savor the day. Nobody blinks if you sip a mimosa or Bloody Mary before noon, menus tend to brim with versatile choices ranging from elegant omelets to hearty steak frites and treating yourself to dessert is an expected ritual. Then, should you decide you’d like a nap after, well, that’s just fine with the world.
With the laid-back vibe enjoyed in Santa Cruz, brunch is a lifestyle. Some of the most popular restaurants offer it even on weekdays. Brunch specialist Harbor Cafe, for example, is open Wednesday through Monday and doesn’t even bother to serve dinner.
“People are often always in weekend mode when they are here in Santa Cruz,” said Daniel Voskoboynikov, who started working at Harbor Cafe in 2000 and purchased it in 2006. “Or it’s the morning after something very fun. Or it’s their day off work, or they are on vacation and taking it easy — hence they have the time for a slower dining experience.”
The cafe, just a few blocks from Twin Lakes State Beach and Santa Cruz Harbor, has been a community staple for more than 60 years. At first, the rustic, corrugated metal-trimmed building was a local hangout for fishermen, yet it now attracts crowds of all kinds, from hipsters to surfers, kids to older adults and plenty of happy dogs on the expansive patio.
No matter what day or time you visit, you can expect the place to be slammed — it’s first come, first served — yet somehow service runs…