When we want to go all out, we turn to the delicious memories of a recent tapas tour of Spain.

Tapas, those small tasty bites of savory foods, make great picnic fare. There are many combinations suited for transporting in coolers and enjoying chilled or at room temperature. The menu easily expands to accommodate the guest count and hunger levels.

Tapas can be practically anything spread on bread, skewered on a wooden pick, served as a cold salad or warm off the grill or out of a small cazuela (clay dish). Our favorites tend to be those served on small plates for sharing–either with a spoon or on slices of bread.

The first recipe, a delicate creamy salad, known simply as ensaladilla (or ensaladilla Rusa — Russian salad), captured our hearts at a tapas bar in Santiago de Compostela. There, this classic dish of cooked potatoes and carrots, cut into pretty, small pieces and mixed with green peas and mayonnaise, is piled high alongside thick slices of bread. At home, the salad turns out to be the perfect tapas party cornerstone.

Chickpeas, mixed with caramelized onions, arrive warm in clay baking dishes in Spain’s traditional tapas restaurants. We ate them with a spoon and scooped up all the oily goodness on the bottom of the dish. Often, grilled sliced octopus or chunks of best-quality tinned fish are added for a heartier dish. These are great served with sliced bread either warm or at room temperature.

We nearly inhaled a super-simple tomato appetizer one evening in San Sebastian at a bright, modern-looking tapas bar. Juicy, ripe tomato wedges seasoned with fruity Spanish olive oil and coarse salt arrived in a shallow bowl. Thankfully, tomato season will be around here for many weeks–we’ll vary the dish by changing the oil to suit our tastes.

Thinly sliced Spanish ham, sandwiched between slices of buttered baguette, can be made a couple of hours in advance, then individually wrapped. Sliced sausages, tinned sardines, assorted cheese and pickles round out our picnic offerings. Other nibbles could include grilled shrimp, grilled vegetables on skewers and deviled eggs. Of course, bowls of olives and roasted nuts are welcome. Baskets of sliced hearty bread fill in the gaps.

Serve tinto de Verano (summertime red wine) with the tapas — simply fill a wine glass half full with fruity red wine (over ice if you wish). Then top off the glass with sparkling lemonade or lemon soda water. Garnish with a slice of lemon.

• Creamy potato, carrot and pea salad*
• Sliced grilled sausages
• Spicy chickpeas and onions*
• Tomato salad *
• Spanish Iberico ham (or prosciutto) on buttered baguette slices or buns
• Tinned sardines
• Assorted pickles and olives
• Assorted cheese
• Sliced French bread or sourdough bread
• Creamy Potato, Carrot and Pea salad
• Ensaladilla

Makes 6 servings as part of a tapas menu

• 6 medium-size golden potatoes, about 1 pound total
• 6 to 8 skinny carrots, 8 to 10 ounces total. peeled
• 2/3 cup (3 ounces) fresh shelled or thawed frozen peas
• 2 shallots, finely diced or 1/4 cup finely diced red onion, rinsed, drained
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or unseasoned rice vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon each: Dijon mustard, salt
• Chopped fresh chives or green onion tops

1. Peel potatoes if desired. Cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. Cut slices into 1/2-inch wide sticks. Cut sticks into 1/2-inch dice. Put diced potatoes into a microwave-safe bowl. Add 1/2 cup water and cover tightly with lid or plastic wrap vented at one corner. Microwave on high (100% power), stirring once or twice until potatoes are fork-tender, 5 to minutes. Let stand 5 minutes. Drain.

2. Slice carrots into 1/4-inch thick coins. Put carrots into a microwave-safe bowl. Add 1/4 cup water and cover tightly with lid or plastic wrap vented at one corner. Microwave on high (100% power), stirring once or twice until carrots are fork-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from microwave and stir in peas. Let stand covered 5 minutes. Drain.

3. Put shallots into a large bowl. Stir in mayonnaise, vinegar, mustard and salt. Mix well. Stir in drained potatoes, carrots and peas. Serve garnished with chives. (Salad can be refrigerated for up to three days; serve at room temperature.)

Makes 6 servings as part of a tapas menu

• 1 large sweet onion, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch wide wedges
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon each: salt, ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 cans (15 ounces each) chickpeas, drained, rinsed
• Finely grated rind and juice of 1 small lemon
• Chopped fresh parsley

1. Cut onion through the stem end into 1/4-inch thick wedges. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet until hot; add onion. Cook and stir until the onion is soft and golden, 10 to 12 minutes.

2. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, salt, cumin and crushed red pepper. Cook and stir until flavors are blended, about 2 minutes. Stir in drained chickpeas. Cook and stir until chickpeas are well coated with the mixture and very hot, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in lemon rind, juice and parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature. (This keeps in the refrigerator, covered, up to four days.)

Makes 6 servings as part of a tapas menu

• 6 ripe round tomatoes, cored, about 1 1/4 pounds
• 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin Spanish olive oil
• 1 tablespoon garlic oil, avocado oil or pistachio oil
• Coarse (kosher) salt
• Sliced French bread or sourdough

1. Cut each tomato through the stem end into six or eight wedges. Put the wedges into a serving bowl. Refrigerate, covered, up to a day.

2. Just before serving, drizzle with the oils and toss gently to coat the tomatoes with the oil. Sprinkle generously with salt. Serve at room temperature. Pass bread to soak up all the tomato juices.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)