Lush green hills and vast eucalyptus trees line state Route 92 as I make a left turn toward Half Moon Bay. With its stretch of world-class surfing beaches, vibrant seafood restaurants and pumpkin fever, it’s no wonder the coastal town has remained a Bay Area treasure.
On a recent trip, I played tourist to explore the area and its windy ocean-side trails. I wanted to be as spontaneous as possible, but one thing was certain. I’d begin the day with brunch at one of Half Moon Bay’s most popular roadside pit stops.
Dad’s Luncheonette, which operates from a century-old train caboose in a parking lot off Highway 1, was minutes away from its 11 a.m. opening when I arrived. A few customers had already gathered outside the caboose on this breezy summer morning. I peeked inside it as I quietly waited to get my hands on the restaurant’s best-known item: the burger sandwich.
Before long, a cashier with dark frames and leopard print trousers greeted the customers. The tiny ordering area was festive, with pink accent colors, twinkle lights and a mini disco ball hanging above the register. The menu has two sandwiches — a beef option and a mushroom one. The beef sandwich ($14.50) is made with a beef patty, fried egg, cheese, pickled red onions and lettuce tucked between two slices of grilled white sandwich bread.
The vegetarian option ($14.50) features an identical sandwich combination but substitutes the beef patty for savory sauteed maitake mushrooms. Sides include crispy, paper-thin potato chips sprinkled with nutritional yeast ($4), mom’s herb salad ($7.50), macaroni and cheese ($7.50), soup of the day ($8.50), and dessert ($8).
Chef-owner Scott Clark opened Dad’s Luncheonette in 2017 after a three-year stint as chef de cuisine at Michelin-starred Saison. Since opening, Clark and his partner Alexis Liu have run Dad’s Luncheonette with a limited menu due to the caboose’s tiny kitchen space. They prefer a humble approach.
“Sometimes less is more,” Liu told SFGATE. “We strive to do the best versions possible of what we offer, so that means keeping the menu short and sweet.”
When it was my turn to order, I requested the hamburger sandwich, a side of chips and a watermelon soda for a total of $27.86, including tax and tip. It was a steep price I was willing to pay but not a shocker for the Bay Area. “Thanks, Suze. We’ll call you when your order is ready,” the cashier said.
I made my way to one of the picnic tables and waited for my meal. In less than an hour, dozens of patrons showed up, and the picnic tables began to pack up. Customers sitting on the benches huddled next to their loved ones as cars sped down Highway 1.
Before long, a staffer called my name and handed me a brown paper bag. The hamburger sandwich was much thinner than I had anticipated but packed incredible flavor. The fried egg added an extra boost of protein while the pickled red onions added acidity and that crunch factor I always look for in sandwiches. The potato chips helped round out the meal with a balanced saltiness.
Liu shared that Dad’s Luncheonette brings a mix of tourists and locals alike who regularly make the special trip to the historic caboose. After a filling breakfast, I decided to venture off to downtown for some window shopping and a much-needed cup of coffee.
Downtown treasures
The afternoon began to warm up as I made my way to Main Street, which is filled with funky shops. A mural by artist Julie Engelmann on the side of Cunha Country Store features an image of harvest that celebrates the decades-old Half Moon Bay Art and Pumpkin Festival. The mural has massive golden sunflowers that add a charming touch to that particular corner.
Directly across the way is a coastal-themed, half-painted mural by muralist Jane Kim. The artist was in the middle of outlining a fish swimming in an oceanic kaleidoscope filled with seaweed, crabs, starfish and a seal. The Sea Crest School gifted the work of art to Half Moon Bay.
After admiring the murals, I grabbed a quick coffee at Cafe Society, a charming coffee shop with an old-timey feel that offers live jazz sessions throughout the month. The cafe has a selection of breakfast sandwiches and bagels too, but I was there specifically for a café au lait. The menu features a variety of caffeinated drinks, such as lattes and mochas. Just a few steps away from the cafe is gift shop Tokenz. As a former mineral rock collector, my inner child beamed with excitement when I spotted a selection of amethysts, turquoise and jade arranged behind a glass display. The store also sells beads for jewelry.
Further down Main Street in the opposite direction, I stumbled upon a boutique called Juniper & Main. The chic storefront offers a selection of men’s clothing, glassware and notebooks, but what caught my eye most was something far more wholesome — a souvenir penny press machine positioned right by the entrance. Four Half Moon Bay-themed illustrations were available that included an octopus, crab and a surfboard. The store owner gave me two pennies when I made the sad discovery that I had none left in my wallet. Luckily, I had a spare dollar bill to make a set of two tokens.
Across the street, I found Half Moon Bay Wine and Cheese, a bottle shop that also offers wine by the glass. It carries a wide selection of wines but also cheese, crackers and other picnic provisions. I grabbed a bottle of NV J. Storey “Beast,” a California red blend, but made a point to return later for a glass. The last shop I visited was Earth Impact, where you can find an array of unique tropical house plants. I spotted a beautiful monstera, also known as the Swiss cheese plant, near the register. I snagged it for my budding plant collection back home.
I spent about an hour wandering through downtown and wondered why I had never made it a point to check out the shops during my previous visits. Then, I headed back to the car, with sights set on a beach stroll.
Fresh air and a cold brew
Half Moon Bay’s Coastal Trail, which is about 7.5 miles total, is just a short drive from downtown. I didn’t anticipate walking the entire footpath but committed to 1.5 miles starting at Francis Beach Campground. Parking costs about $10 for the day, but you can also find plenty of street parking. When I arrived, dozens of campers and families were getting ready to hit the beach or set up barbecue grills near picnic tables on the grounds. The gentle sea breeze was calming as I made my way south toward dog-friendly Poplar Beach.
The windy path immediately gave way to spectacular ocean views. Down below, horses with riders gracefully trotted on the sand as small waves crashed into the shore. In the distance, colorful homes caught my eye. A few people populated the path, but otherwise, my walk was tranquil. I grabbed a bench that overlooked the ocean and took a moment to enjoy the views and fresh, crisp air.
Eventually, I walked down the sandy steps to Poplar Beach, where beachgoers were busy playing horseshoes, sunbathing and splashing in the icy ocean. I should have brought a blanket to sit on the beach.
After I made my way back to Francis Beach Campground, I jumped into my car and ended the day with an ice-cold beer at Half Moon Bay Brewing Company, which is across the street from Barbara’s Fish Trap. Half Moon Bay Brewing offers outdoor tables with peppy yellow umbrellas. The brewery has 13 beers on tap, including a pineapple cider, coffee milk stout and Kolsch brew. I opted for an IPA called “Flower to the People” and ordered a side of thick, crispy fries for good measure. As seagulls shrieked overhead, I sipped my beer and watched cars drive down Capistrano Road, ready to explore this coastal hamlet’s charm, just as I had.