The chances of a Thai person choosing pad thai as their favorite Thai dish are rare. In a vast and dynamic culinary canon that includes pungent som tam (papaya salad), whole steamed fish dressed in lime and chiles, and electrifying tom yum soup, it pales in comparison, even with its combination of salty, sweet, sour, nutty, and spicy. And yet, pad thai has captured the hearts of non-Thais and become emblematic of Thai food — just as the Thai government planned.

That’s not to say that pad thai isn’t Thai. Different regions of the country prepare their version of the street noodle dish, including tucking the noodles inside an egg omelet, using raw or cooked bean sprouts, and adding chiles for an extra kick. In the 1960s, when my mom was growing up in Bangkok, pad thai vendors sold a pared-down version made with just rice noodles tinged in tamarind. Back then, shrimp and river prawns were a luxury, while tofu and eggs were pleasant additions when available. Even though my mom will always fondly remember the trays of pad thai she grew up eating, often prepared by my grandmother, she eagerly embraces the new variations of the dish that have evolved since its inception in the 1930s. With her deep knowledge of the dish and an astute palate that zeroes in on notable details, my mom is the perfect person to go on a pad thai crawl with.

The perfect pad thai begins in the wok with the “pan’s flavor,” which is the result of high heat and proper seasoning. Only when prepared in the right vessel can pad thai truly shine, with charred, brown bits rippling across the rice noodles and the taste of flames folded throughout the bean sprouts and strands of green onions. Another important element is the inclusion of dried shrimp, which adds a mellow umami flavor, and roasted peanuts — never peanut butter. While pad thai prepared with tomato paste or ketchup was an understandable adaptation in the 1970s when tamarind was difficult to find in the U.S., there is no excuse for acidic, neon orange, and gloopy noodles today.

Los Angeles’s growing Thai population, as well as access to fresh produce and Thai ingredients, makes it easy to find versions of pad thai that taste true to the punchy, pungent flavors of Thailand.

The overall favorite: Chao Krung

Find the best pad thai in Los Angeles at Chao Krung, which opened in 1969 and has remained a cornerstone of the Thai community in its 55-year history. With decades of experience, the restaurant has pinned down all the dish’s multilayered flavors. The scorch marks on the rice noodles signal that a high-heat and well-seasoned wok is used in the kitchen, while the dried shrimp are so finely incorporated that they completely melt into the sauce and noodles. The shrimp’s subtle brininess is bolstered by the tang of tamarind and the results feel like a minuet of tangy and salty notes. There’s also the addition of sweet preserved radishes, an old-school touch that not every Thai restaurant provides, which further coaxes the caramelized notes of palm sugar. The pad thai comes with the choice of chicken, shrimp, crispy pork belly, tofu, or sirloin steak. While shrimp is the most traditional, it’s hard to deny the allure of blistered pork belly. 111 N. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90036.

The showstopper: Farmhouse Thai Kitchen

Chef Kasem “Pop” Saengsawang opened Bay Area-import Farmhouse Thai Kitchen in 2022. The decor feels more like a funhouse or a nightclub than a Thai restaurant with its giant horse statue at the entrance, sparkly chandeliers, and a wall of pink flowers, but withhold any judgment until tasting the food. The big draw is the lobster pad thai, which costs $55 and is worth every penny. A whole poached lobster arrives on a mountain of pad thai. The restaurant provides seafood crackers to break down the lobster, but the kitchen can also do the heavy lifting upon request. Though the pad thai noodles are a bit salty, with a squeeze of lime and a drizzle of spicy Thai seafood sauce — a chile, lime, and fish sauce dressing that comes alongside the lobster — everything becomes congruent. This dish easily feeds two to four people and makes for a stunning centerpiece. 5560 W. Adams Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90016.

The street side winner: Pong Pad Thai

Although At Siam is a relatively new night market in Hollywood, the recipe for pad thai from Pong Pad Thai is not. Pongphaka Pongsamart, the chef of Pong Pad Thai and founder of At Siam night market, traces her pad thai recipe back to the royal family of Thailand. It has the sweet, salty, spicy, and tangy notes expected from pad thai without an excess of oiliness. Fresh chives served alongside each tray add an element of freshness to the dish, and it’s hard to beat the bustling atmosphere of the night market that feels like dining on the streets of Bangkok. 1711 N. Cahuenga Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90028.

Matthew Kang

Matthew Kang