In an island nation colonized by Japan for 50 years, many Taiwanese have learned the Japanese language and their style of cooking. Katsu — Japanese-style breaded and fried cutlets — are one of most popular foods in Taiwan’s modern food scene, which means you can find them everywhere — from convenience stores to high-end restaurants.
When I lived in Taiwan, I loved my after-school convenience-store katsu sando — a comforting Japanese sandwich featuring a crispy pork cutlet, tonkatsu sauce, and shredded cabbage.
Now, in my New York City kitchen, I make my own version of a katsu sando. This recipe is a love letter to those convenience-store sandwiches I enjoyed so much.
3/4 cup Kewpie mayonnaise, divided
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1/4 medium green cabbage (about 12 ounces)
4 (1-inch thick) boneless pork chops (5 to 6 ounces each)
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 to 4 cups vegetable oil
8 (1/2-inch thick) slices milk sandwich bread
1/2 cup tonkatsu sauce, such as Bull-Dog, divided
1. Finely grate 4 garlic cloves into a large bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the Kewpie mayonnaise and 2 teaspoons yuzu kosho, and stir until combined. Core and very thinly slice 1/4 medium green cabbage with a mandolin or sharp knife (about 3 cups), thinly slice 2 medium scallions crosswise, and add both to the bowl. Toss until combined.
2. Pound 4 boneless pork chops one at a time: Place on a cutting board and pound with the flat side of a meat mallet or bottom of a small pan until 1/2-inch thick. Season the pork chops all over with 1 teaspoon kosher salt.
3. Place 2 large eggs in a wide, shallow bowl and whisk until combined. Place 1 cup all-purpose flour in a second wide, shallow bowl. Place 1 cup panko bread crumbs in a third wide, shallow bowl.
4. Bread the pork chops one at a time: Dip into the flour until completely coated, then shake off the excess flour. Dip into the eggs until completely coated. Dip into the panko until completely coated, then place on a baking sheet.
5. Add enough vegetable oil to a Dutch oven or 10-inch high-sided skillet to come 1-inch up the sides (2 to 4 cups). Heat over medium-high heat until 350ºF. Meanwhile, fit a wire rack over a second baking sheet.
6. Fry the pork chops one at a time: Gently place in the pan and fry until golden-brown all over and just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes total. Transfer to the rack and lightly season with kosher salt.
7. Place 8 (1/2-inch thick) slices milk bread on a clean cutting board. Spread 1 tablespoon Kewpie mayonnaise on each of 4 slices. Spread 2 tablespoons tonkatsu sauce on each of the remaining 4 slices. Top each tonkatsu slice with a pork chop. Divide the cabbage slaw over the pork chops, then close the sandwiches with the mayonnaise slices mayonnaise-side down.
8. Trim the sandwiches into squares (snack on the trimmings), wiping the knife between each cut to get the cleanest cuts. Cut each sandwich in half to form two rectangles.
Recipe note: The cabbage can be sliced and the pork chops pounded out up to one day ahead. Refrigerate in separate airtight containers.
(Jessie YuChen is a contributor to TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to [email protected].)