Los Angeles’s already stunning sushi scene will receive an upgrade with the debut of Udatsu on September 18. The celebrated Michelin-starred omakase counter from Tokyo is slotted in an intimate space above the recently opened restaurant Rokusho in Hollywood. The duo of restaurants designed in Brutalist fashion by Gry Space comes from chef Hisashi Udatsu, who aims to create a global chain of sushi omakase restaurants like Ginza Onodera and Sushi Zo.

Udatsu’s stark walls with tasteful artwork give the space a modern feel. At locations in Tokyo and newly opened Hong Kong, the counters are made with beautiful hinoki wood, but a clean concrete slab rests under elbows in Hollywood. “The concept of the Tokyo restaurant is art and sushi. We brought all the art from Tokyo that we were using at the original. We’ll swap them according to the season,” says Udatsu.

In Hollywood, chef Udatsu has installed his protége, Shingo Ogane, to lead the omakase counter serving a farmers market-influenced menu that hews to modern Tokyo sushi. That means leaning heavily on Toyosu Market’s best seasonal offerings like bluefin tuna from Aomori prefecture, nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), and aji (horse mackerel) while infusing more local seafood and produce. The uni course, which features a piece of crispy nori above a mound of sushi rice, blends Hokkaido and Santa Barbara varieties for the best of both sea urchins. The shrimp course comes from Japan and the U.S. for a cross-Pacific collaboration. Chef Udatsu says he’ll try to visit the Hollywood location four times a year.

Chef Udatsu uses Sasanishiki rice from Miyagi prefecture due to its low level of stickiness, which he says works well with sushi. The chef tailors the temperature of the rice depending on each cut of nigiri. “It’s all very calculated,” he says. Udatsu portions nigiri generously with a hefty amount of rice to match the large slices of fish.

Like many of the top sushi places in LA, Udatsu ages fish in special refrigerators to further develop flavor. The 12-day-aged tuna is served five ways: the lean and fatty cuts come as nigiri, while the hay-smoked otoro with fresh wasabi is served in a crystal bowl.

The omakase at Udatsu includes approximately 17 courses for $225 a person (before a $5 order fee and 20 percent service charge). Each dinner is preceded by cocktails on the terrace, with services commencing at 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. Given the steady growth of omakase in Los Angeles, it’s clear that Udatsu is here to play with the best of the bunch, priced well below the likes of Ginza Onodera, Kaneyoshi, and 715, which all cost around $400. In addition to a standard omakase, Udatsu will serve a vegetarian omakase option in the months to come.

Udatsu is located at 6634 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 90028, and serves from Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations can be made on Tock.