The restaurant: Church and Union, 1433 17th St., Denver; churchanduniondenver.com
About: Church and Union is a small, upscale dining chain specializing in steak, seafood, small plates and sides. It was founded in Charleston, S.C., before expanding to Charlotte, N.C., and Nashville; a Miami location is also planned. The management group includes “Top Chef” alum Jamie Lynch and chef partner Adam Hodgson, who previously worked in Denver. The restaurant occupies a 7,500-square-foot space in a historic 1896 building that was originally built as the St. Elmo’s Hotel. It has room for 150 diners across two floors along with a 30-seat patio.
What’s on the menu: Dishes include Lynch’s lamb burger with red onion marmalade, gorgonzola fondue, arugula and secret sauce. There are also handmade braided ravioli with garlic tomato sauce, capers and parmesan; a 24-ounce cowboy ribeye for two; and Colorado trout prepared with spinach gnudi, charred leak and brown butter. Church and Union’s signature cocktail, the Ghost, is made with tequila, orange liqueur, cucumber water, lime and cayenne pepper.
Who’s cooking: Lynch “boasts an impressive culinary background,” according to Church and Union’s parent company, the 5th Street Group, “with roles at Le Cirque, Aureole and Café Boulud, and has been recognized as Charlotte Magazine’s ‘Best Chef’ five times.” He has also competed on seasons 14 and 17 of “Top Chef/Top Chef All Stars.” Hodgson, meanwhile, worked in Denver restaurants from 2008 tp 2010 and appeared on season 23 of the show “Beat Bobby Flay.”
More: Church and Union is known for unusual artwork, including a ceiling mural in each location with all 17,000 words of Sun Tzu’s “The Art of War” — something that takes 400 hours to complete. Painted by artist Jon Norris, the mural is centered around a quote from the ancient Chinese military treatise – “there is only we” – which is also 5th Street Group’s company mantra. But the locations also feature artwork “paying homage” to each city.
Opening date: Sept. 27, 2024, for dinner and late-night service, with lunch to follow.
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