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What to try at the Denver Food & Wine Festival 2023: Brutø, Noisette

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With wine glasses in one hand and small bites balanced in the other, hundreds of people gathered under shaded tents for the Denver Food & Wine Festival Grand Tasting on Saturday.

And as the Michelin Guide prepares to present its first-ever awards in Colorado on Tuesday, it was clear that the 50 restaurants in attendance had truly stepped up their game, something that is true also of Colorado’s food scene as a whole. I glided through each tent in awe, like I was stepping into the gates of food heaven. I’d like to say I made it to every table, but my stomach could only handle so much.

Proceeds from the annual multi-day festival go toward the nonprofit Colorado Restaurant Foundation, which hosted the festival and which supports local restaurant workers.

Here are six of my favorite bites (plus a couple of honorable mentions):

BRUTO's chochoyotes, masa dumplings that the restaurant was topping with caviar, are seen at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)
Bruto’s chochoyotes, masa dumplings that the restaurant was topping with caviar, are seen at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)

Brutø

Brutø is one of The Denver Post’s possible Michelin-star contenders this year, so it’s no surprise that the Mexican-inspired, fine-dining spot came to play. Chef Michael Diaz de Leon prepared an elevated Mexican dish: a chochoyota, or a small ball of corn dough, topped with salsa macha and a dollop of caviar, which paired perfectly with a welcome glass of bubbly.

1801 Blake St., Denver; brutodenver.com

Chez Maggy

Famed Chef Ludo Lefebvre showed up to greet Denver foodies at Chez Maggy’s booth. The popular restaurant gave attendees a bite of France with a crispy square of tapioca with parmesan and Piment d’Espelette, a rare red chile pepper from France.

1616 Market St., Denver; chezmaggydenver.com

Bryce Sweeney, owner of Reckless Noodle House, tops their ma la braised beef cheek noodle dishes with pickled Fresno peppers at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)
Bryce Sweeney, owner of Reckless Noodle House, tops their ma la braised beef cheek noodle dishes with pickled Fresno peppers at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)

Reckless Noodle House

After debuting its first Denver restaurant in December last year, Reckless Noodle House was ready to impress. The Seattle-based restaurant served up a bowl of tender mala braised beef cheek noodles, which I quickly slurped up before going back for round two.

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800 Sherman St., Denver; recklessnoodlesdenver.com

Pieces of Restaurant Olivia's lemon olive oil cake topped with strawberry-rhubarb jam and mint chantilly are ready for serving on a tray at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)
Pieces of Restaurant Olivia’s lemon olive oil cake topped with strawberry-rhubarb jam and mint chantilly are ready for serving on a tray at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)

Restaurant Olivia

Restaurant Olivia, another one of The Post’s possible Michelin-star contenders, has never served something I don’t like. Chef Ty Leon wanted to stand out from the crowd of savory options and instead baked a lemon olive oil cake with strawberry rhubarb jam and mint Chantilly. The moist sweet treat was an ideal bite to wash down with a chilled glass of rosé on a hot summer day.

 290 S. Downing St., Denver; oliviadenver.com

Tim Lu, Noisette co-owner and chef, dresses a meatball on puff pastry dish with chicken jus at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)
Tim Lu, Noisette co-owner and chef, dresses a meatball on puff pastry dish with chicken jus at the Denver Food and Wine Festival on the Auraria Campus in Denver on Saturday, Sept. 9, 2023. (Photo by Eli Imadali/Special to The Denver Post)

Noisette

Chicken pot pie is one of my favorite comfort meals, and Noisette put its own French twist on the classic American dish, topping a perfectly crisp puff pastry with a truffle meatball and a dash of gravy, and calling it “Vol-au-vent de Volaille et Truffle.” I haven’t stopped dreaming about it since.

3254 Navajo St., Denver; noisettedenver.com

Lucina Eatery & Bar

Lucina owner and Chef Erasmo Casiano and his team had their work cut out for them, putting on a show by cooking three giant pans of seafood paella, about the width of a giant’s arm span. The Latin American-inspired restaurant stuck to its roots, and it paid off, as shown by the lines of hungry attendees.

2245 Kearney St. #101, Denver; lucinaeatery.co



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