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Your favorite 24-hour taco shop? You might find it in one of these photos during San Diego Design Week – San Diego Union-Tribune

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The lights literally clicked on when inspiration hit for photographer Marshall Williams’s project documenting Southern California taco stands.

“Driving home one day, I was stopped at a traffic signal, it was dusk, and I was staring across the street at a taco shop on the corner of Washington and Third, when all of the lights clicked on; it seemed to just spontaneously illuminate. In that moment, I saw that structure in a way I hadn’t before,” he says. “From that point forward, I began to notice what seemed like a taco shop on every corner in San Diego. Many of them share a lot of the same characteristics—red and yellow striped facades, drive-thru windows, and of course the ‘‘bertos’ moniker. It finally dawned on me that is wasn’t just Mexican food, it was the experience of going to these quirky taco shops that was so uniquely San Diegan.”

This five-year project began in 2019, photographing these iconic and ubiquitous taco shops in black and white, during dusk. The idea started with the realization that one of his favorite things to do when he’s in New York City is to grab coffee and a bagel from one of the corner coffee carts all over the city. So, what’s the equivalent when he’s home, in San Diego? The taco stand. In the spirit of creating spaces of inclusion and belonging found in World Design Capital San Diego Tijuana 2024 (presenting World Design Experience with San Diego Design Week), Williams was encouraged by some friends to pitch his project during the open call for this program. The result is “Taco Stand Vernacular—Artist Talk and Field Trip” from 5:30 to 8 p.m. Sept. 21 at his studio in Mission Valley. Guests will see the photos, hear from Williams, and then take a trip to nearby Nico’s Taco Shop. (Admission is free and registration is requested at sddesignweek.org.)

Williams, 59, is a photographer and owner of his commercial photography studio, Marshall Williams Photography, and lives in Hillcrest with his wife, Kathy (and they have two adult daughters, Ella and Chloe). He took some time to talk about his taco stand project, how beloved these businesses are in their respective neighborhoods, and his use of photography to express communication and connection.

Q: You’re hosting “Taco Stand Vernacular — Artist Talk and Field Trip,” focused on your work documenting Southern California taco shops since 2019. Going into this project, what was your perception of the vernacular of taco shops? How would you have described what you were experiencing in this regard?

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A: I would say this has been an enormous exercise in learning to see. As I began to photograph different taco shops, I became hyper attentive to the various visual cues that are present. These are the menu boards and the neon lights and directional arrows, the “Open 24 Hours” signs — all of the visual cues that signal to us about where we are and how to get what we want. It was only when I began to view these images side by side that I could really begin to recognize the particular visual lexicon they share. In the fine art photography world, there was a movement that was recognized in the 1970s called Typology. Artists would photograph a single type of subject matter and then display prints of these items together. Edward Rucha, Roger Mertin, Bernd and Hilla Becher are a few of the prominent practitioners. I didn’t realize this at the time, but this is loosely what I was doing.

Q: How did your understanding of taco stand vernacular evolve over the course of this project?

A: I was initially, and still am, drawn to the physicality of these structures; but my idea of a vernacular has broadened to encompass a common story that the owners of these small businesses share. Most of these taco shops are family owned and it is the actual owners who are frequently taking the orders and making the food. It is quite often a multigenerational operation.

In regard to pursuing the project, what was surprising to me was the overwhelming response from people when they saw the images. It became apparent how beloved these institutions are in our community. Rendering the final prints in black and white creates a timeless quality to the images, a fresh way of seeing something that we drive by every day.

What I love about Hillcrest…

Hillcrest is about as centrally located as you could get, and since we live so close to Balboa Park, we feel deeply connected to the city’s rich historical past and a sense of civic pride for the older uptown neighborhoods. We live in a house that’s more than 100 years old and I’ve learned how to restore the wood casement windows. I don’t necessarily love many of the urban annoyances around us, but I am grateful to live in a neighborhood that is vibrant and energetic. And, there are lots of taco shops nearby.

Q: In going through the photos you have on your website for this project, I think I recognize Roberto’s Taco Shop on Broadway in Chula Vista? Is that correct? I grew up in this neighborhood and this particular taco shop was my favorite (with regular visits in high school and college, and when I moved across the country, every time my plane landed in San Diego, my family knew that one of my first stops had to be Roberto’s before we even got home). Do you have a go-to taco stand?

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A: When I first moved to San Diego I lived in Mission Beach, I was 20 years old, and it was the Roberto’s on the corner of Mission Blvd., across from the roller coaster that was the scene of many late-night taco runs for me. My current go-to taco shop is Nico’s on Morena Blvd., for their breakfast burritos. It is close to the studio and has been owned and operated by the same family since 1987.

Q: The purpose of the World Design Experience is articulated as “creating a sense of belonging through design” and “design that…deepens our connections.” How do you see your work in “Taco Stand Vernacular” aligning with this goal?

A: I think it aligns seamlessly. These photographs were made to uplift and recognize these local institutions as neighborhood landmarks and cultural touchstones. Food is commonly known as the gateway to other cultures. When we sit down to enjoy a taco together, perhaps we can gain a deeper connection with our neighbors.

Q: What do you hope viewers take from seeing the images in this project?

A: Southern California is a large and diverse place. Our identity is deeply entwined with Mexico in this region and the taco shop is a symbol of that dual identity. I hope people seeing these pictures are reminded of our shared culture.

Q: With this desire for support and inclusion as a focus of the World Design Experience, can you talk about your approach to photography and how you see the ability of this medium to play a role in the expression of ideas like radical inclusion?

A: A still photograph is perhaps the most powerful form of communication we have, it transcends language and cultural barriers as well as socioeconomic boundaries. A photograph is the keeper of the details that can be referenced for generations to come. I like to photograph with the idea of what the passage of time might mean to the image I’m making. What details are being kept about our existence?

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Q: How would you describe your point of view as a photographer and how has that point of view evolved over the years?

A: In my commercial work for clients, as well as in my personal work, my images tend to evoke a sense of place and time. In my earlier years, I loved making portraits of what I would consider common everyday people, but from a perspective that showed them as heroes. My taco stand series is really an extension of that philosophy. It’s taking what we might think of as common and treating it in an uncommon way. This was the hallmark of artists like Andy Warhol — a graphic print of a Campbell’s soup can hanging on a museum wall. What I would say has evolved is my confidence as an artist in pursuing pictures that feel meaningful to me.

Q: What is the best advice you’ve ever received?

A: It would be from my father, to “move through life in a forward direction.”

Q: What is one thing people would be surprised to find out about you?

A: I was never much of a reader growing up, but now I crave being consumed by a good book, usually biographical in nature. We have a family book club, which has been a great way to stay connected with our daughters and to be exposed to literature I probably wouldn’t have sought out.

Q: Please describe your ideal San Diego weekend.

A: My ideal weekend in San Diego is definitely centered around food. It would mostly likely involve having friends or family over for dinner in the backyard on a beautiful evening. My wife and I both enjoy cooking and entertaining. I like going to my favorite butcher shop in Spring Valley (Valley Farms) and we can walk to the Hillcrest Farmers’ Market on Sunday mornings. I’ve really come to appreciate the simplicity of time spent with someone over a meal and a glass of wine. Our Saturday mornings typically begin with a long walk to our favorite coffee shop in North Park.



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