Tuesday, October 15, 2024
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Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week: October 15

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The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.


Al pastor tacos at Tacos Tamix in Culver City

A white paper plate with six tacos filled with pork and pineapples at Tacos Tamix in Culver City.

Al pastor tacos at Tacos Tamix in Culver City.
Rebecca Roland

Quite often I find myself Westide-ish and a little hungry for something quick and satisfying. Luckily Tacos Tamix, one of LA’s best al pastor purveyors, operates a truck right off the 405 at the crossroads of Clarkdale, Mar Vista, and Palms. While most of the meats are worth ordering, I usually opt for the al pastor shaved off the trompo into waiting tortillas with an expert swipe of a knife. The essential slice of pineapple on top carries some of the savory smoke that’s been wafting off the meat, combined with the sweetness of warm fruit. The tortillas are no-frills, but they do the job of holding it all together, and not getting too damp once salsa is added on top. The only downside is it seems like the taco shrinkage is still real, so I often add in an extra taco just in case. 3801 S. Sepulveda Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90230. — Rebeca Roland, associate editor

Raw hamachi at Edgemar in Santa Monica

A white plate with raw hamachi topped with herbs and cucumber at Edgemar in Santa Monica.

Raw hamachi at Edgemar in Santa Monica.
Matthew Kang

The way that chefs Jared Dowling and Jonathan Thoma earnestly attempt to weave international flavors together at the new Edgemar in Santa Monica feels refined and refreshing. This hidden gem of a restaurant along Main Street boasts a handsome dining room, dimly lit and properly tuned for grown-up dinners on the Westside. The two chefs bring big London energy to the bill of fare with blistered “crying tiger” prawns, Munak Ranch tomato tonnato, and Beijing duck “tacos.” I was particularly smitten by the rum nước chấm-laden hamachi: Thick and firm slices of yellowtail worthy of a top-flight omakase accompanied by a Vietnamese-inflected slaw of sliced cucumber, basil, mint, and onion. I imagine the flavors will coalesce further given the kitchen’s six-week tenure, adding even more umami, spice, and acid that Angeleno diners love. A server told me that there’s a constant balancing act to ensure things aren’t too intense for the tamer Westside dining crowd. I say, bring on the flavor, like this stellar raw fish appetizer. 2435 Main Street, Santa Monica, CA 90405. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Paneer Parm at Pijja Palace in Silver Lake

One of my favorite restaurants in LA is a rowdy Silver Lake sports bar even though I haven’t followed sports closely since Michael Jordan’s first NBA retirement. With my attention squarely focused on the food, rather than glued to one of the restaurant’s many flatscreens, I can thoroughly appreciate Miles Shorey’s creations. In honor of opening on Monday nights for NFL action, the chef recently introduced a slew of new dishes, including a pepperoni, honey, and chile-topped pizza, piri piri fries paired with lime pickle raita, and best of all, a duo of “sandos” that are as boldly flavored and playfully conceptualized as anything on the menu. The lamb burger with Amul cheese and “hot spread” is a juicy little number that’s as musky as one would hope, while the crispy paneer Parm sando with malai sauce and pickled chiles delivers richness and satisfaction in every bite. It’s damn near impossible to top Pijja Palace’s now-iconic rigatoni, but these two new stunners manage to steal some of its shine. 2711 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90026. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Ham royale at Bub & Grandma’s in Glassell Park

A ham and butter sandwich with leafy greens on a crusty baguette at Bub & Grandma’s in Glassell Park.

Ham royale at Bub & Grandma’s in Glassell Park.
Mona Holmes

When staying in Los Angeles during an extended weekend, exploring and relaxing into the days is key to maximizing one’s time off. It’s also a good time to revisit a spot that’s tried and true and order something new. I live a short drive from Bub & Grandma’s and regularly end up at this neighborhood gem in the early hours for breakfast sandwiches and walk out with pastries and some of the region’s best bread. This time, however, the ham royale was in my sights. This sandwich knocked it out of the park. It’s a classic, yet slightly adjusted take on the jambon beurre made with Bub’s gorgeous baguette slathered in butter and layered with ham, arugula, and a salty layer of cornichon tapenade that’s wonderful for anyone obsessed with brine. This sandwich is ideally suited for picnics, whether on one’s car trunk, at a park, or sitting on one of LA’s many secret stairs, which is exactly where I consumed mine. 3507 Eagle Rock Boulevard, Glassell Park, CA, 90065. — Mona Holmes, reporter



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